Anchored around a renovated villa in the verdant rolling hills that characterize
the commune of Macerata is the Cantine Sant’Isidora: an estate that’s part of
the lesser-known wine-making zone DOC Colli Maceratesi Ribona. A somewhat
obscure grape variety Maceratino (aka Ribona) provides this sub-region of the
Le Marche with its moniker. The late-maturing and high yielding variety creates
fragrant clusters of golden fruit and is one of the indigenous white wine vines
thriving here between the Apennine mountains and central Italy’s Adriatic coast.
Farming on a relatively modest vineyard plot of thirteen hectares, the winery’s
soils which surround the ancient monastery originally built by Franciscan friars,
are indeed blessed due to their Argillaceous limestone nature. With abundant
clay and calcium carbonate, this composition and temperate maritime climate
contribute greatly to create an excellent grape-growing terroir.
Moreover, as Le Marche continues to be overshadowed (happily) by some of its
neighbours such as better-known Tuscany, price-points remain proportionally
lower and there’s somewhat less pressure to replace near-arcane varieties like
this week’s DéClassé-recommended offering with commercial grapes such as
Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio – though a few other local stars like Verdicchio and
Pecorino are gaining ground and popularity.
Surprisingly, having only been aged in stainless steel holding tanks for 6 months,
with a scant several more in bottle, this delightful, fresh, medium-bodied white
will hold its crispness in cellar for at least 2 more years (up to 5 in fact). So try
some of this noteworthy vintage before someone decides that this delicate, yet
deeply flavourful and versatile wine style is no longer in vogue!
CANTINE SAN’ISIDORO PAUSULA 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #362947 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD
Made in: Marche, Italy
By: Società Agricola Pinto
Release Date: Feb 1, 2014
Though listed as an extra dry wine, this does lightly hint at a touch of honeyed
sweetness along with its supple blend of stone and citrus fruits. It’s equally at
home served alone, as apéritif with Pecorino cheese, or try with Porchetta,
most Indian dishes and anything prepared with Chanterelle mushrooms.