From antiquity through to the modern age, the often hotly debated cultural and
territorial legacy of Macedonia has produced a wealth of opposing contentions.
The uncertainty about its people’s place within or aside of the Greek patchwork
is, in some part, fueled by the generalized fame of Macedonia’s best-known son
and iconic figurehead, Alexander the Great. Tutored by Aristotle and steeped in
Homer’s mythic tales, he could proficiently read, speak and conduct himself as a
Greek; as a complimentary second culture to his native Macedonian and its Slav
heritage. Under his leadership, the vast expansion of the so-called Greek Empire
would eventually dominate the Balkans, Asia Minor, Central Asia, Mesopotamia,
Persia and Egypt. Ironically for Greeks, the rise to this unrivalled supremacy in the
ancient world began with Alexander’s military campaign to subjugate rebellious
city-states in Greece’s homelands. In the wash of history, Alexander has become
viewed as archetypal Greek, and the former realm of the Macedonian Kingdom
has been partitioned among neighbouring territories in the Balkans and Bulgaria.
The portion that remains within the present day boundaries of northern Greece,
contains some of the region’s most prized vineyards; unique cool climate terroirs,
and specialized cultivation of one indigenous variety for the last 1,500 years!
The sub-region of Naoussa, along with its surprising geography of snowcapped
mountains, framing the forested foothills that spill onto a verdant central plain,
now also has an official VQPRD wine zone designation. The acronym’s aim is to
promote the highest quality standards for Greek wines and mark their distinct
origins within the country. Largely due to the leadership efforts of the dynamic
Boutari vineyard group, developing this classification and its requirements are
propelling Greece’s re-anointment as a reliable source of premium winemaking.
As example, this week’s DéClassé featured Naoussa 2013 is a polished version
of varietal Xinomavro wine; currently, the best-selling, ambassador wine style for
Greece’s worldwide export. As of 1879, 137-years of accumulated expertise by
this storied vintner has culminated in the enviable burden of being a benchmark
for how well that modern Greek winemakers are doing overall. Year in and out,
they substantiate their global reputation by consistently producing well-crafted
wines across a range of grades. The 2013 vintage of this entry-level offering is
no exception to the rule; it shows unsurpassable quality at a $13.95 price-point!
Approx. 100km from Thessaloniki, this particular estate is both the oldest and
original one of the six regional appellations that Boutari has land holdings in.
Among the region’s nine villages that include the region’s namesake: Naoussa,
vineyards are located on the sunny, southeast-facing slopes surrounding Mount
Vermio. Irrigated by runoff, these calcium-rich clay and loam soils provide the
perfect conditions for Xinomavro grape growing. Despite being a prolific variety
that’s thrived here for eternity, the grape has frequently fallen in and out of
commercial favour. Under the stewardship by Boutari, this variety is resurgent
and demonstrating its desirability for producing satisfying medium-bodied wine
with the potential to age and develop complexity. Rightly compared to Italy’s
Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barbaresco and Barolo, it shares many of the
basic attributes such as ample acidity levels married with firm tannins.
This vintage is a charmingly youthful bottling that can be had inexpensively and
then reward 3-5yrs. of cellaring by becoming even smoother and more rounded.
Buy at least 3. Decant one for several hours to enjoy now and stow the others
away to grace a sumptuous winter’s meal later on in 2021. Or, in exercising
some admirable discipline, wait even a bit later for the magic to happen!
BOUTARI NAOUSSA 2013
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #23218 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD
Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: February 6, 2016
This distinctive red wine has flavours of cherries, raspberry with hints of vanilla
and cocoa. Fairly typical of Naoussa style wines, it’s pleasingly tart and earthy in
a balanced combination. Try serving as apéritif with hard cheeses or with mains
of grilled kabobs, hearty casseroles, and porcini risotto.