Category Archives: Red Wine

Super Venetian Alert

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The development of Appassimento grape drying technique originates with early
Roman wine making experiments. Initially aimed at creating various sweet wine
styles such as Recioto della Valpolicella, it was gradually adapted to create a
broader range of drier, though still immensely rich variants such as Amarone,
Ripasso and this week’s DéClassé recommended 2010 vintage of Campofiorin.

Here in the hilly vineyards of Verona, numerous generations of vintners at Masi
have been refining the so-called ‘Super Venetian’ first released in 1964: yet
another variant of the traditional techniques, this has also gained the winery the
deserved reputation for being the leading innovators of a regional style boasting
a Latin subtitle “Nectar Angelorum Hominibus” (“Nectar of the angels for men”)!

The artisanal process begins with pre-selected, optimally ripe grape bunches
being harvested long after the main picking has been completed. These are then
laid out to dry on bamboo racks known as ‘Arele’ and left to wither for a portion
of the early winter months. Once having reached the desired concentrations for
both sugar and glycerin content, they’re slowly pressed and allowed to gradually
ferment for an extended period – also in the cold.

The extracted juice from this complicated process becomes Amarone wine; the
residual grape pomace that’s left over is re-purposed by being added to young,
partially aged wine. This promotes a secondary fermentation, adding richness
and becoming a Ripasso-style wine. For the Campofiorin version, a small batch of
whole dried fruit is added. In all cases, the typical grape varieties include the local
stars of north-eastern Italy such as Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

This bottling is several dollars above the traditional DéClassé price-point, though
with an appreciation of how much effort has been invested by the winery – it’s a
real bargain for what should be a classy dinner wine addition to your go-to list.
Remarkably, this has so much body, it could stand up to 15-20yrs. of cellaring!

Masi Campofiorin

MASI CAMPOFIORIN IGT
LCBO Product #155051 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 18.95
13.0% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Veneto, Italy
By: Masi Agricola S.P.A.

Tasting Note
Has a distinct and layered set of aromas and flavours including cherry, currants
and spice. As expected from a Ripasso wine, it’s velvety smooth and extremely
versatile with a broad range of food pairings. Try as apéritif with appetizers
such as steak tartare, salsa verde or also ideal with well-aged cheeses.

Tempranillo Alert

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Bodegas LAN, founded in 1972, is an acronym derived from 3 provinces in the
Rioja designation of origin – Logroño (now called La Rioja), Álava and Navarra.
This winery’s picturesque 72 acre plot known as Viña lanciano, is a spectacular
horseshoe-shaped location along the meandering, vineyard-lined Ebro River. At
a higher elevation this area is also referred to as Rioja Alta, with a reputation
for producing somewhat lighter, fruit forward wines – resulting from the shorter
growing season and the character of its limestone, sandstone and alluvial soils.

Though La Rioja has ancient traditions of winemaking dating back to the period
of the Phoenicians, it was the King of Navarra and Aragon who was the first to
convey legal recognition on these indigenous wines early on in the 12th century.
Unlike many of the large producers in the region who source their grapes from
numerous independent growers with wide-ranging standards, LAN, as part of a
new generation of Spanish vintner, is producing a more distinctive flavour profile
from the closely managed harvests of its large, single vineyard.

Native to Rioja, grapes for this 100% Tempranillo varietal wine are hand-picked
and sorted, with initial fermentation begun in stainless steel tanks. The Crianza
designation attests to the young wine then being aged in a novel construction of
wooden casks (which combine American Oak staves with French Oak tops) for
12 months, followed by at least another year in the bottle. This current bottling
has 3 yrs. of cellaring at the Bodega and though it offers less complexity than a
Reserva grade, it has serious credentials for a $16.00 offering.

Unlike the perennial and immensely popular DéClassé recommendation of the
2006 thru 2009 vintages, the 2010 release has been ordered by the LCBO in
sufficient amounts so as to qualify for its ‘Vintages Essentials’ listing – happily
making it available throughout the better part of this year!

LAN

LAN CRIANZA 2010
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #166538 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rioja, Spain
By: Bodegas Lan, S.A.
Release Date: Mar 1, 2014

Tasting Note
Layered aromas of red fruit, vanilla and spice. This medium-bodied, lively red has
a smooth balance of light tannins and alcohol. Try pairing it with grilled chicken
salad with Arugula and lemon pepper dressing or leg of lamb and pork loin with
roasted beets and goat cheese salad.

Cab Sauvignon Alert

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Drawing on fruit harvested from vines originating as French root-stock, coupled
with the relative softness imparted by a collection of 400 French oak barriques,
this neo-Bordeaux blended red of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc
nonetheless does impart the unique character of Bulgaria’s verdant vineyards.
Here in the Danube Plain wine growing region west of Sofia, in the tiny village of
Nisovo with its diminutive population of 120, the impressive underground cellar
of this vintner vies for attention only with a nearby rock monastery and 70 large
stone crosses of the reputed Templar graves mixed into the Roman cemetery.

It’s a historic and colourful context for what quizzically remains undiscovered,
yet very rich and prolific wine country. This is partially explained by the reality
that Bulgaria, being a key component of the former Soviet Union, directed most
of its premium exports to Russia and only now is gaining an improved reputation
in western markets for offerings other than the unfortunate flood of inexpensive
and unremarkable bulk wine that it released in the 1980’s. Fortunately for us,
this changing attitude of quality vs. quantity consciousness by Bulgarian vintners
continues to translate into modest price-points for their much more exceptional
wines – a case in point is the week’s DéClassé featured, Reserve Grade offering.

Having mostly been planted in the 1960’s to replace less-remarkable or archaic
varieties, these vineyards, blessed with some of the geographic benefits of being
situated on the same latitude as Bordeaux and Tuscany – are now fully mature.
Coupled with updated wine-making techniques that includes planned reduction in
yields in favour of more-concentrated fruit, the revitalized and dynamic wineries
of ‘Thrace’ are now creating modern wines that fully deserve the attention, the
appreciation and the votes of confidence by discerning buyers like you!

Horse Valley

HORSE VALLEY SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVE RED 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #363929 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Danubian Plain, Bulgaria
By: Wine Union JSC
Release Date: Feb 15, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a medium-bodied, smooth and fulfilling red with some classic flavour and
aroma notes of cherry, vanilla and spice. Try serving with heartier food fare such
as roasts, game, ratatouille and gnocchi with meat sauces.

Syrah Alert

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AP Pic Saint-Loup is both a designated wine-making appellation and monolithic
limestone ridge rising up above the surrounding, relatively wild lands covered in
fragrant vegetative scrub (locally known as ‘garrigue’) – including an abundance
of thyme, rosemary, juniper and indigenous, wild grape vines sprawling across
13 municipalities and about 5800 hectares.

20 km inland from the Mediterranean shores of Southern France, this region
lies within the province of Languedoc and is a transition point from coastal plain
to the higher, inland plateau. The resulting character sees a split into 2 differing
climate zones/terroirs: one, allowing the heat-loving grapes such as Mourvèdre
to grow at lower altitude; the other, encourages Syrah and Grenache to thrive
further up. For this week’s DéClassé recommended bottling, it’s a 60%/40%
blend of the latter varieties. In both cases, the conditions conspire to yield fruit
that’s more elegant and somewhat more refined than from the nearby, hotter
plains. In most cases though, the offerings from Midi remain a bargain-hunters
treasure with beautiful, earthy and complex wine available at modest prices.

Ever since the Roman invasion of Gaul about 2,000 years ago, certain regions
have had a head start, both for developing wine making techniques and in the
establishing of desirable reputations for marketing their output. Remarkably,
this part of France still has the caché of being less-discovered territory where
vintners and consumers are being rewarded by the continuing elevation of their
standards and the exploration of modernized techniques.

As you are now also ‘in-the-know’ about this Gold Medal winner at the Concours
de Grands Vins du Languedoc-Roussillon in 2012, hit the store now, as it’s
likely to sell out within another couple of days!

Domaine Lambrusques

DOMAINE LAMBRUSQUES ESPRIT SAUVAGE 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #354142 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Midi, France
By: Les Vins Aujoux Sas
Release Date: Feb 15, 2014

Tasting Note
This medium to full-bodied wine is a smooth display of dark fruit flavours with
some of the expected, subtle notes of mocha, spice and pepper. Try this with
rack of lamb, risotto of all sorts, pasta bolognese and hard cheeses.

Shiraz Alert

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Here in Australia’s Limestone Coast wine region, 300km south of Adelaide, the
Bryson Family has a 5 generation-long farming tradition that for the past 50 yrs.
or so has been focused on producing premium-grade red and white wine grapes
cultivated on their own rootstock – that’s an impressive, additional challenge to
take on as a grower. More often than not, vintners will purchase rootstock from
nurseries that specialize in the complex grafting and nurturing of young vines. To
undertake this knowledgeable labour is an indication that every detail matters in
the production of wines for the signature line aptly known as Jip Jip Rocks!

The estates’s 190 hectares of vineyard are located in the beautiful and historic
Padthaway Valley, home to the unusual, bulbous-like rock formations that litter
the landscape. Among many desirable attributes at work in this terroir, including
sun-drenched exposures in daytime offset by the cool maritime breezes at night,
are the prized Terra Rosa soils. Often associated with the Mediterranean basin
and Italy in particular, this composition of ancient, weathered limestone results
from the residual clay and non-soluble rock becoming oxidized (rusting), yielding
up the characteristic reddish colour – imparting a bountiful supply of essential
minerals, as well as, providing excellent drainage to the vine’s roots.

This week’s DéClassé-recommended bottling of 100% Shiraz has spent a year
in a deftly rotated combination of new and older American and French oak barrels
then another 15 months in bottle to get to its current level of maturity. Though
ready to go now, with youthful fruitiness still at the forefront, this could continue
to develop on your rack for several more years. If you like your red wines on the somewhat voluptuous side – then don’t hesitate to buy a bunch!

Jip Jip Rocks

JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #673897 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: South Australia, Australia
By: Bryson Family
Release Date: Feb 1, 2014

Tasting Note
Apart from classic notes of cherry, this also incorporates chocolate and mocha
coffee. Though spicy on the nose, the oak is nonetheless very well-incorporated.
Try serving this with your Sunday night roast pork or beef, with hearty stews,
casseroles or mature cheeses.

Naoussa Grande Reserve Alert

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The Naoussa region in Macedonia, apart from its picturesque landscape of
rolling hills overlooking the central plain, now also carries an official wine zone
designation VQPRD – the acronym suggests the highest standard for quality of
Greek wines which have a distinct, geographic origin. Due in part to the efforts
of the dynamic Boutari vineyard group, this EU-mandated classification is at the
heart of Greece’s gradual reemergence as a significant wine making source,
with the varietal, Naoussa being the current, best-selling premium red wine from
Greece worldwide. This storied vintner, established in 1879, also has the highly
enviable reputation (and burden) of being elected as one of several ‘Winery of
the year’ by Wine and Spirit magazine for a remarkable, ongoing 16yr. streak!

Here in Northern Greece, this holding is part of the six wine appellations that
Boutari works within, including the region’s namesake: Naoussa. These historic
vineyards are located on the sunny, south-east facing slopes of the foothills
surrounding Mount Vermio, where the calcium-rich soils composed of clay and
loam provides the ideal conditions for the Xinomavro grape. Having originated
and thrived here for countless centuries, the vines have frequently fallen in and
out of commercial favour. Often compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo grape used for the
making of Barolo wine, this variety is again demonstrating its ability to produce
big-bodied red wines with the potential to age well and develop added complexity.
Having spent 2 years in oak barrels and another 2 in bottle, this has sufficient
body to hold up for another, impressive stretch of 12-15yrs.

There was a release of the still very young 2008 vintage in August of 2013 at
the give-away price-point of $12.95! It was an excellent example of a promising
bottling which could be had for a song, that then after 2-5yrs. of cellaring would
become a rewarding, smooth and rounded collector’s item. Offered here now is
the Grande Reserve version from 2007, standing as testament to how well this
wine develops with time, though of course somewhat more expensive since the
vintner has put an extra investment into this bottling. Nonetheless, it’s still great
value which should encourage you to buy 3 – one to enjoy now, the other 2 put
away to grace a sumptuous meal later on this winter or several ones after that.

Boutari Grande Reserve

BOUTARI GRANDE RESERVE 2007
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #140111 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: Jan 18, 2014

Tasting Note
With flavours of vanilla, cocoa, red berry and cherries, it’s both tart and earthy
which is fairly typical of nutty Naoussa style wines. Try serving with grilled meats,
heavier casseroles, porcini risotto and hard cheeses.

Graciano Alert

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Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce, incorporating representatives from 4 generations, is
a family company originally founded by Grandfather Amador Escudero in 1940
shortly after the Spanish Civil War ended. Their property in the Baja district, one
of 3 sub-regions of La Rioja that also includes Alta and Alavesa, has significant
plantings of old vine Graciano grapes on their 60 hectares of chalky, alluvial soil
– with most of these mature vineyards now averaging at least 40 years of age.

More typically, this highly regarded region’s wines are built around Tempranillo,
with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo(Carignan) varieties incorporated in small
quantities as blending components – adding aroma, body or depth of flavour.
Now under nervy and innovative guidance of younger Spanish vintners, Graciano
is experiencing a renaissance as an excellent varietal wine on its own, despite
its commercial liabilities of being notoriously low-yielding and mildew susceptible.

The wine trade in the La Rioja region is both storied and in a state of transition.
Apparently, the earliest mention of viticulture is preserved in a document known
as “Carta de población de Longares” (Letter to the Settlers of Longares) dating
to 1063 with the first legal recognition of Rioja wine bestowed in 1102 by the
King of Navarra and Aragon. In terms of its relative quality and practices, local
wine merchants have a long history of establishing Bodegas to market wines
made from intermixed fruit supplied by approx. 20,000 growers, in turn drawn
from the harvests throughout all 3 sub-regions. More recently, to better ‘typify’
its wine styles and output, Bodegas are becoming more discerning and are now
beginning to source grapes from only single zones in these allowable regions.

This week’s DéClassé recommended bottle is consistent with the latter practice
and results in an over-achieving table wine that defines exceptional value. Also,
having spent about 11 months in French Oak, it has sufficient structure to age
well in the cellar for at least another 2-5yrs. – meaning you won’t have to rush
through the second or third bottle that you bought after drinking the first.

Rio Madre

RIO MADRE 2011
VINTAGES – Product #354753 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rioja, Spain
By: Bodegas Y Vinedos Ilurce
Release Date: Jan 4, 2014

Tasting Note
Dark fruits lend notes of black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and a pleasant
touch of licorice. Try serving this medium-bodied and slightly spicy wine with beef
tenderloin, steak frites, chorizo and lentil stew or with strong cheeses.