Syrah Alert

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AP Pic Saint-Loup is both a designated wine-making appellation and monolithic
limestone ridge rising up above the surrounding, relatively wild lands covered in
fragrant vegetative scrub (locally known as ‘garrigue’) – including an abundance
of thyme, rosemary, juniper and indigenous, wild grape vines sprawling across
13 municipalities and about 5800 hectares.

20 km inland from the Mediterranean shores of Southern France, this region
lies within the province of Languedoc and is a transition point from coastal plain
to the higher, inland plateau. The resulting character sees a split into 2 differing
climate zones/terroirs: one, allowing the heat-loving grapes such as Mourvèdre
to grow at lower altitude; the other, encourages Syrah and Grenache to thrive
further up. For this week’s DéClassé recommended bottling, it’s a 60%/40%
blend of the latter varieties. In both cases, the conditions conspire to yield fruit
that’s more elegant and somewhat more refined than from the nearby, hotter
plains. In most cases though, the offerings from Midi remain a bargain-hunters
treasure with beautiful, earthy and complex wine available at modest prices.

Ever since the Roman invasion of Gaul about 2,000 years ago, certain regions
have had a head start, both for developing wine making techniques and in the
establishing of desirable reputations for marketing their output. Remarkably,
this part of France still has the caché of being less-discovered territory where
vintners and consumers are being rewarded by the continuing elevation of their
standards and the exploration of modernized techniques.

As you are now also ‘in-the-know’ about this Gold Medal winner at the Concours
de Grands Vins du Languedoc-Roussillon in 2012, hit the store now, as it’s
likely to sell out within another couple of days!

Domaine Lambrusques

DOMAINE LAMBRUSQUES ESPRIT SAUVAGE 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #354142 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Midi, France
By: Les Vins Aujoux Sas
Release Date: Feb 15, 2014

Tasting Note
This medium to full-bodied wine is a smooth display of dark fruit flavours with
some of the expected, subtle notes of mocha, spice and pepper. Try this with
rack of lamb, risotto of all sorts, pasta bolognese and hard cheeses.

Maceratino Alert

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Anchored around a renovated villa in the verdant rolling hills that characterize
the commune of Macerata is the Cantine Sant’Isidora: an estate that’s part of
the lesser-known wine-making zone DOC Colli Maceratesi Ribona. A somewhat
obscure grape variety Maceratino (aka Ribona) provides this sub-region of the
Le Marche with its moniker. The late-maturing and high yielding variety creates
fragrant clusters of golden fruit and is one of the indigenous white wine vines
thriving here between the Apennine mountains and central Italy’s Adriatic coast.

Farming on a relatively modest vineyard plot of thirteen hectares, the winery’s
soils which surround the ancient monastery originally built by Franciscan friars,
are indeed blessed due to their Argillaceous limestone nature. With abundant
clay and calcium carbonate, this composition and temperate maritime climate
contribute greatly to create an excellent grape-growing terroir.

Moreover, as Le Marche continues to be overshadowed (happily) by some of its
neighbours such as better-known Tuscany, price-points remain proportionally
lower and there’s somewhat less pressure to replace near-arcane varieties like
this week’s DéClassé-recommended offering with commercial grapes such as
Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio – though a few other local stars like Verdicchio and
Pecorino are gaining ground and popularity.

Surprisingly, having only been aged in stainless steel holding tanks for 6 months,
with a scant several more in bottle, this delightful, fresh, medium-bodied white
will hold its crispness in cellar for at least 2 more years (up to 5 in fact). So try
some of this noteworthy vintage before someone decides that this delicate, yet
deeply flavourful and versatile wine style is no longer in vogue!

Isidoro Pausula

CANTINE SAN’ISIDORO PAUSULA 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #362947 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Marche, Italy
By: Società Agricola Pinto
Release Date: Feb 1, 2014

Tasting Note
Though listed as an extra dry wine, this does lightly hint at a touch of honeyed
sweetness along with its supple blend of stone and citrus fruits. It’s equally at
home served alone, as apéritif with Pecorino cheese, or try with Porchetta,
most Indian dishes and anything prepared with Chanterelle mushrooms.

Shiraz Alert

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Here in Australia’s Limestone Coast wine region, 300km south of Adelaide, the
Bryson Family has a 5 generation-long farming tradition that for the past 50 yrs.
or so has been focused on producing premium-grade red and white wine grapes
cultivated on their own rootstock – that’s an impressive, additional challenge to
take on as a grower. More often than not, vintners will purchase rootstock from
nurseries that specialize in the complex grafting and nurturing of young vines. To
undertake this knowledgeable labour is an indication that every detail matters in
the production of wines for the signature line aptly known as Jip Jip Rocks!

The estates’s 190 hectares of vineyard are located in the beautiful and historic
Padthaway Valley, home to the unusual, bulbous-like rock formations that litter
the landscape. Among many desirable attributes at work in this terroir, including
sun-drenched exposures in daytime offset by the cool maritime breezes at night,
are the prized Terra Rosa soils. Often associated with the Mediterranean basin
and Italy in particular, this composition of ancient, weathered limestone results
from the residual clay and non-soluble rock becoming oxidized (rusting), yielding
up the characteristic reddish colour – imparting a bountiful supply of essential
minerals, as well as, providing excellent drainage to the vine’s roots.

This week’s DéClassé-recommended bottling of 100% Shiraz has spent a year
in a deftly rotated combination of new and older American and French oak barrels
then another 15 months in bottle to get to its current level of maturity. Though
ready to go now, with youthful fruitiness still at the forefront, this could continue
to develop on your rack for several more years. If you like your red wines on the somewhat voluptuous side – then don’t hesitate to buy a bunch!

Jip Jip Rocks

JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #673897 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: South Australia, Australia
By: Bryson Family
Release Date: Feb 1, 2014

Tasting Note
Apart from classic notes of cherry, this also incorporates chocolate and mocha
coffee. Though spicy on the nose, the oak is nonetheless very well-incorporated.
Try serving this with your Sunday night roast pork or beef, with hearty stews,
casseroles or mature cheeses.

Naoussa Grande Reserve Alert

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The Naoussa region in Macedonia, apart from its picturesque landscape of
rolling hills overlooking the central plain, now also carries an official wine zone
designation VQPRD – the acronym suggests the highest standard for quality of
Greek wines which have a distinct, geographic origin. Due in part to the efforts
of the dynamic Boutari vineyard group, this EU-mandated classification is at the
heart of Greece’s gradual reemergence as a significant wine making source,
with the varietal, Naoussa being the current, best-selling premium red wine from
Greece worldwide. This storied vintner, established in 1879, also has the highly
enviable reputation (and burden) of being elected as one of several ‘Winery of
the year’ by Wine and Spirit magazine for a remarkable, ongoing 16yr. streak!

Here in Northern Greece, this holding is part of the six wine appellations that
Boutari works within, including the region’s namesake: Naoussa. These historic
vineyards are located on the sunny, south-east facing slopes of the foothills
surrounding Mount Vermio, where the calcium-rich soils composed of clay and
loam provides the ideal conditions for the Xinomavro grape. Having originated
and thrived here for countless centuries, the vines have frequently fallen in and
out of commercial favour. Often compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo grape used for the
making of Barolo wine, this variety is again demonstrating its ability to produce
big-bodied red wines with the potential to age well and develop added complexity.
Having spent 2 years in oak barrels and another 2 in bottle, this has sufficient
body to hold up for another, impressive stretch of 12-15yrs.

There was a release of the still very young 2008 vintage in August of 2013 at
the give-away price-point of $12.95! It was an excellent example of a promising
bottling which could be had for a song, that then after 2-5yrs. of cellaring would
become a rewarding, smooth and rounded collector’s item. Offered here now is
the Grande Reserve version from 2007, standing as testament to how well this
wine develops with time, though of course somewhat more expensive since the
vintner has put an extra investment into this bottling. Nonetheless, it’s still great
value which should encourage you to buy 3 – one to enjoy now, the other 2 put
away to grace a sumptuous meal later on this winter or several ones after that.

Boutari Grande Reserve

BOUTARI GRANDE RESERVE 2007
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #140111 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: Jan 18, 2014

Tasting Note
With flavours of vanilla, cocoa, red berry and cherries, it’s both tart and earthy
which is fairly typical of nutty Naoussa style wines. Try serving with grilled meats,
heavier casseroles, porcini risotto and hard cheeses.

Grüner Veltliner Alert

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Grown primarily in Austria but also widely in the neighbouring Czech Republic,
Grüner Veltliner is a white grape variety that hasn’t yet taken hold anywhere
else. A fairly hardy vine, it’s current success is tied to the rocky soils found on
the slopes of the ancient volcanic calderas in these regions. Mostly intended to
be consumed young (a staple in the so-called “Heuriger” wine bars of Vienna),
it’s also known as being particularly food-friendly – suitable to serve both as an
apéritif and as a compliment to main courses.

In the mid 18th century, 20 hectares of land associated with Weingut Rudolph
Rabl began as a traditional farm with mixed crops and livestock. Then, having
added grape vines, the business was up until the early 20th century confined to
providing bulk wine in barrels to the local innkeepers. In 1986 Rudolf Rabl junior
(Rudi) joined his father Rudolf senior which allowed the winery to expand to 80
hectares, becoming one of the largest estates in the Kamptal (the Kamp Valley
and river) with 35% of the vineyards dedicated to cultivation of Grüner Veltliner.

Derived from their terraced Kittmansberg vineyard near the town of Langenlois
in lower Austria, the desirable attributes of this land parcel represents a unique
combination of rich loess (wind-blown soil) with an underlying crushed stone bed,
providing the necessary drainage for healthy, mildew-free, white grape cultivation.
The distinctive black raven icon depicted on Rabl (‘little raven’) labels represents
their line of single vineyard wines. Moreover, these wines are only released when
deemed ready – thus explaining the fact that this week’s DéClassé featured wine
is from a somewhat unusual, late-breaking 2011 vintage.

All in all, it’s taken some time for North American markets to catch on to white
wine styles other than the classic, current stars such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc, Soave and Pinot Grigio. So, here at the outset of the New Year and in the
spirit of exploring the horizon – add this to your list of DéClassé-recommended,
characterful dry whites that should now also include Sylvaner, Sèvre et Maine,
Tsinandali and Pecorino.

Gruner Veltliner

RABL KITTMANSBERG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #346007 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Kamptal, Austria
By: Weingut Rudolph Rabl
Release Date: Jan 4, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a bright, fresh and fruity wine with loads of ripe acidity and intriguing,
spicy notes on the finish. Try serving with smoked fish and meats, veal or
roasted vegetable minestrone.

Graciano Alert

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Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce, incorporating representatives from 4 generations, is
a family company originally founded by Grandfather Amador Escudero in 1940
shortly after the Spanish Civil War ended. Their property in the Baja district, one
of 3 sub-regions of La Rioja that also includes Alta and Alavesa, has significant
plantings of old vine Graciano grapes on their 60 hectares of chalky, alluvial soil
– with most of these mature vineyards now averaging at least 40 years of age.

More typically, this highly regarded region’s wines are built around Tempranillo,
with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo(Carignan) varieties incorporated in small
quantities as blending components – adding aroma, body or depth of flavour.
Now under nervy and innovative guidance of younger Spanish vintners, Graciano
is experiencing a renaissance as an excellent varietal wine on its own, despite
its commercial liabilities of being notoriously low-yielding and mildew susceptible.

The wine trade in the La Rioja region is both storied and in a state of transition.
Apparently, the earliest mention of viticulture is preserved in a document known
as “Carta de población de Longares” (Letter to the Settlers of Longares) dating
to 1063 with the first legal recognition of Rioja wine bestowed in 1102 by the
King of Navarra and Aragon. In terms of its relative quality and practices, local
wine merchants have a long history of establishing Bodegas to market wines
made from intermixed fruit supplied by approx. 20,000 growers, in turn drawn
from the harvests throughout all 3 sub-regions. More recently, to better ‘typify’
its wine styles and output, Bodegas are becoming more discerning and are now
beginning to source grapes from only single zones in these allowable regions.

This week’s DéClassé recommended bottle is consistent with the latter practice
and results in an over-achieving table wine that defines exceptional value. Also,
having spent about 11 months in French Oak, it has sufficient structure to age
well in the cellar for at least another 2-5yrs. – meaning you won’t have to rush
through the second or third bottle that you bought after drinking the first.

Rio Madre

RIO MADRE 2011
VINTAGES – Product #354753 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rioja, Spain
By: Bodegas Y Vinedos Ilurce
Release Date: Jan 4, 2014

Tasting Note
Dark fruits lend notes of black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and a pleasant
touch of licorice. Try serving this medium-bodied and slightly spicy wine with beef
tenderloin, steak frites, chorizo and lentil stew or with strong cheeses.