Category Archives: White Wine

Vinho Verde Alert

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Monção is the most northerly sub-region of the Vinho Verde DOC, which in turn
is in the most northerly province of Portugal on the frontier with Galicia. As this
terroir is also bordered by the damp, western coastal climate, the grapes grown
among the forested hillsides which line these misty valleys – are fast maturing,
white wine varieties. Moreover, the grapes are necessarily grown in an overhead
canopy style, that promotes good air circulation, lessening the possibility of fungal
disease which can be more prevalent with these elevated moisture levels.

This week’s recommended vintner is Adega Cooperativa Regional de Monção,
based in the heart of Melgaço – a historical town whose intriguing stone walls
provide both the bottle’s namesake and graphic. Over the past several decades
in particular, they’ve achieved an enviable reputation as a consistent producer
of high quality wine – despite the numerous variables involved in sourcing grapes
from 1,700 individual growers, each of whom contributes from vine plots that
are typically only 2 acres or less.

Becoming a seasonal tradition, early springtime now sees DéClassé promoting
a Vinho Verde, though this year the LCBO release has come out a touch later.
This so-called ‘green wine’ (more likely to mean ‘young’) is built around a blend of
2 noble grape varieties: the indigenous, Portuguese Trajadura (15%) along with
the somewhat-more aromatic Alvarinho (85%). The latter has a distant Spanish
heritage from across the border – providing the characteristic spritziness and
contributing a slightly higher level of alcohol than is the norm for this delightful
wine style. Spring has sprung, so celebrate by uncorking some of this very bright
bottled sunshine to enjoy alongside patio brunch-fare!

Muralhas

MURALHAS DE MONÇÃO VINHO VERDE 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #80374 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
12% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Monção e Melgaço, Portugal
By: Adega Coop. Regional de Monção
Release Date: Apr 26, 2014

Tasting Note
This refreshing wine has aromas of ripe peach and apricot coupled with apple
flavours and a pleasing acidity and minerality. A natural compliment for seafood
of all kinds, also try with white meats, pasta and light cream or pesto sauces.

Côtes du Rhône Blanc Alert

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Continuing in the focus on lesser-appreciated white wine styles that offer up
an engaging alternative to Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, this week’s
DéClassé recommended bottling is a reintroduction of Côtes du Rhône Blanc.
This distinctive version is produced by the Perrin Family who are unfortunately,
frequently mistaken as a bulk wine producer. They are actually a storied, local
vintner (currently 2 brothers) building on a legacy of a century of wine making.
180 hectares of vineyard including their Château de Beaucastel, are situated
between the Ouvèze and Aigues rivers in south-central France near Cairanne
and Joquieres. Five generations onward, the family owned winery has traditions
spanning several centuries. The current holdings represent steady, progressive
investments made since the early 1900’s that have with careful management
– now reached their full potential and terroir distinctiveness.

This is a fairly typical Rhône blend of unoaked, aromatic white varieties including
50% Grenache Blanc offering an acidic base, 20% Viognier and an equal parts
mix of Marsanne, Roussanne adding both aroma and texture. This combination
of grape characteristics coupled with bio-dynamic, unobtrusive wine-making
techniques, results in a crisp, fresh, medium bodied white that’s easy-drinking,
as well as, extremely versatile with food pairings.

This bottling is ready to drink now, but also cellarable for another couple more
years. Don’t over-chill, so as not to lose the depth of flavour available here. This
might be a refreshing add to your upcoming, Easter brunch event.

Perrin Fils Cotes Du Rhone Blanc

PERRIN & FILS RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #499509 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
13.0% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rhône, France
By: Perrin & Fils
Release Date: Apr 12, 2014

Tasting Note
Dry, very fresh and nicely balanced with tropical fruit, stone fruit and almond
aromas and flavours. Try serving as apéritif or with pasta dishes and pan-fried
chicken, steamed mussels, clams or grilled fish.

Sylvaner Alert

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Lying comfortably between the maritime zone to the west and the protective
shadow of the Vosges Mountains eastward, Alsace is the driest wine region in
France. This translates into vineyards where the grapes enjoy a long growing
period toward maturation – resulting in more complex, layered flavors. Since the
Middle Ages, within this zone, the terroirs of Riquewihr have been renowned
as producing some of the most distinctive and interesting white wine varieties
in the entire country including Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and this
week’s DéClassé selected, varietal bottling of a 100% Sylvaner.

Surprisingly, these noteworthy wine-producing tracts were almost wiped out
early in the 20th century by a combination of the earlier Franco-Prussian wars
and then the scourge of various pests and horticultural disease! Nonetheless,
the Sylvaner variety, considered a noble grape, has battled its way in and out of
favour for most the ensuing period. Recently it has again declined from 27% in
the early 1980’s to only 11% of the vineyards currently planted. Gradually, this
grape has waned due to increased consumer demand for Riesling. But Sylvaner
appears to be the come-back kid of Alsace. From the 2005 vintage onward, it
qualifies for the distinction as ‘Alsace Grand Cru’, which should help the variety
to regain part of its former, elevated status.

Also, though grown all over the Europe, it has not caught on significantly in the
New World wine regions. So Alsatian versions, derived from very mature vines,
should continue to revive the deserved re-appreciation and interest in dry, crisp
whites that display none of the overly “grassy” or “herbaceous” notes that seem
to be the current norm for these wine styles from warmer climates.

This bottling is ripe and ready to be enjoyed now, but this strong 2012 vintage
will hold well in the cellar for at least a couple more years – so buy several!

Hugel Sylvaner

HUGEL SYLVANER ALSACE
LCBO – Product #361543 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.25
11.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Alsace, France
By: Hugel & Fils S.A.

Tasting Note
This has an attractive fruit-driven and refreshing, springtime character that’s
typically a much drier wine style than its Riesling cousins. Savour with mildly
spiced roast pork, sweet-and-sour chicken, baked hams and cabbage recipes.

Roussanne Alert

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This Domaine, run by the brothers Michel and Andre Berthet-Rayne, began in
the 1880’s as a modest 6 hectare vineyard plot. 4 generations onward, this
winery’s holdings have swelled to 25 in the one of the Côtes du Rhône region’s
most desirable locations – Cairanne. At the edge of the sun-baked Plan de Dieu
plateau this is part of the ‘Villages’ appellation. Officially including the name of the
village, this AOC designation signifies a superior grade of wine being made here
in the Southern Rhône Valley. Elevated quality is due to stringent requirements
that includes pruning techniques to both thin the vines for better aeration and
lower the grape yields – resulting in more characterful and concentrated fruit.
As of this vintage, the farm’s output is also certified organic and chemical-free.

Influencing the character of this terroir is the clay and calcareous (calcium-rich)
soil covered in the drainage-promoting, crushed rock top layer left behind by the
retreating Rhône glacier. Now in its place, the frigid winds of the Mistral (derived
from ‘miserable’) blow for upwards of 150 days per year, often at near-hurricane
speeds! Though frequently destructive, an upside of these blasts is that they blow
off the moisture-loving fungus growth in spring and cool the vine stock and grape
clusters during the hottest, wilting periods of summer.

The harvest and vinification involves 100% hand picking and sorting, as well as,
fermentation in individual tanks to better ensure that this equal-parts blending
of Clairette, Marsanne, Bourboulenc and traditional star variety Roussanne
– is of a consistently high-caliber.

First established as a wine growing region by the Greeks in the 4th century BCE,
more recently this wine won a Silver Medal at the prestigious Concours Général
Agricole de Paris 2012. With this release you can dare to think that a white wine
from the Côtes du Rhône can be as rich and satisfying as its red counterparts!

Cairanne

BERTHET-RAYNE TRADITION CAIRANNE CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES 2011
VINTAGES –LCBO Product #354100 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
14.0% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rhône, France
By: Dom Andre Berthet-Rayne – Earl Les
Release Date: Mar 1, 2014

Tasting Note
With its tell-tale notes of pear, plums and touches of honey, this weighty-white
also delivers a fine supporting minerality imparted from calcium-laden soils.
Best served with food, try this with roasted vegetable minestrone, lamb and
grilled poultry and fish.

Maceratino Alert

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Anchored around a renovated villa in the verdant rolling hills that characterize
the commune of Macerata is the Cantine Sant’Isidora: an estate that’s part of
the lesser-known wine-making zone DOC Colli Maceratesi Ribona. A somewhat
obscure grape variety Maceratino (aka Ribona) provides this sub-region of the
Le Marche with its moniker. The late-maturing and high yielding variety creates
fragrant clusters of golden fruit and is one of the indigenous white wine vines
thriving here between the Apennine mountains and central Italy’s Adriatic coast.

Farming on a relatively modest vineyard plot of thirteen hectares, the winery’s
soils which surround the ancient monastery originally built by Franciscan friars,
are indeed blessed due to their Argillaceous limestone nature. With abundant
clay and calcium carbonate, this composition and temperate maritime climate
contribute greatly to create an excellent grape-growing terroir.

Moreover, as Le Marche continues to be overshadowed (happily) by some of its
neighbours such as better-known Tuscany, price-points remain proportionally
lower and there’s somewhat less pressure to replace near-arcane varieties like
this week’s DéClassé-recommended offering with commercial grapes such as
Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio – though a few other local stars like Verdicchio and
Pecorino are gaining ground and popularity.

Surprisingly, having only been aged in stainless steel holding tanks for 6 months,
with a scant several more in bottle, this delightful, fresh, medium-bodied white
will hold its crispness in cellar for at least 2 more years (up to 5 in fact). So try
some of this noteworthy vintage before someone decides that this delicate, yet
deeply flavourful and versatile wine style is no longer in vogue!

Isidoro Pausula

CANTINE SAN’ISIDORO PAUSULA 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #362947 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Marche, Italy
By: Società Agricola Pinto
Release Date: Feb 1, 2014

Tasting Note
Though listed as an extra dry wine, this does lightly hint at a touch of honeyed
sweetness along with its supple blend of stone and citrus fruits. It’s equally at
home served alone, as apéritif with Pecorino cheese, or try with Porchetta,
most Indian dishes and anything prepared with Chanterelle mushrooms.

Grüner Veltliner Alert

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Grown primarily in Austria but also widely in the neighbouring Czech Republic,
Grüner Veltliner is a white grape variety that hasn’t yet taken hold anywhere
else. A fairly hardy vine, it’s current success is tied to the rocky soils found on
the slopes of the ancient volcanic calderas in these regions. Mostly intended to
be consumed young (a staple in the so-called “Heuriger” wine bars of Vienna),
it’s also known as being particularly food-friendly – suitable to serve both as an
apéritif and as a compliment to main courses.

In the mid 18th century, 20 hectares of land associated with Weingut Rudolph
Rabl began as a traditional farm with mixed crops and livestock. Then, having
added grape vines, the business was up until the early 20th century confined to
providing bulk wine in barrels to the local innkeepers. In 1986 Rudolf Rabl junior
(Rudi) joined his father Rudolf senior which allowed the winery to expand to 80
hectares, becoming one of the largest estates in the Kamptal (the Kamp Valley
and river) with 35% of the vineyards dedicated to cultivation of Grüner Veltliner.

Derived from their terraced Kittmansberg vineyard near the town of Langenlois
in lower Austria, the desirable attributes of this land parcel represents a unique
combination of rich loess (wind-blown soil) with an underlying crushed stone bed,
providing the necessary drainage for healthy, mildew-free, white grape cultivation.
The distinctive black raven icon depicted on Rabl (‘little raven’) labels represents
their line of single vineyard wines. Moreover, these wines are only released when
deemed ready – thus explaining the fact that this week’s DéClassé featured wine
is from a somewhat unusual, late-breaking 2011 vintage.

All in all, it’s taken some time for North American markets to catch on to white
wine styles other than the classic, current stars such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc, Soave and Pinot Grigio. So, here at the outset of the New Year and in the
spirit of exploring the horizon – add this to your list of DéClassé-recommended,
characterful dry whites that should now also include Sylvaner, Sèvre et Maine,
Tsinandali and Pecorino.

Gruner Veltliner

RABL KITTMANSBERG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #346007 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Kamptal, Austria
By: Weingut Rudolph Rabl
Release Date: Jan 4, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a bright, fresh and fruity wine with loads of ripe acidity and intriguing,
spicy notes on the finish. Try serving with smoked fish and meats, veal or
roasted vegetable minestrone.