Author Archives: Stephan Droege

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About Stephan Droege

With a specific focus on characterful and overachieving wine in the $15 to $18 price-point range, DéClassé aims to expand the readers' taste and curiosity about a diversity of wine styles--while exploring the winemakers in a cultural and historical context. Thank you for visiting the site!

Pinot Gris Alert

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Pinot Gris is a white wine grape that originated in the neighbouring vineyards of
France’s Burgundy, then was proliferated around Europe – notably popularized
in Italy in the latter part of the 20th century where it’s known as Pinot Grigio.
Derived from the larger Pinot family of grapes, this pink-skinned version with low
acidity and relatively high sugar levels does very well in cooler growing conditions
such as Alsace and across the border around Baden, Germany.

Dating to the early 1700’s, the family winemaking estate of Joseph Cattin has
been based in the heart of the Alsatian vineyards south of Colmar, between the
villages of Voegtlinshoffen and Hattstatt. This storied region on the west bank
of the Upper Rhine near the German border has excelled at cool-weather grape
styles since the Middle Ages. The namesake of the current estate, Joseph, was
an early 20th century pioneer in combating the Phylloxera pest which did so much
damage throughout Europe and beyond. Apart from continuing the development
and expansion of what was then a modest 7 hectare property, he also studied
and subsequently developed vine grafting techniques which ultimately became
the viticultural model for many Alsatian growers to overcome the blight.

Later generations expanded the estate to over 50 hectares, as well as, engaged
numerous local growers to cultivate according to the family’s exacting standard.
With most of the combined vineyards sheltered in among the south-east facing
foothills of the Vosges mountains, these terroirs of the Pinot Gris AOC d’Alsace
with their highly variable soils and moderate climate help the vines yield a broad
range of early ripening fruit with well-rounded character.

This 2012 offering won Gold at the 2013 Concours Général Agricole de Paris
– this win being a follow-on to numerous medal accolades for previous vintages.

Pinot Gris

JOSEPH CATTIN PINOT GRIS 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #196956 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
13% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Alsace, France
By: Cattin Freres
Release Date: August 30, 2014

Tasting Note
As is more typical with this wine style in an Alsatian version, it’s richer than its
Italian cousins with aroma and flavour notes of stone fruit, accented by hints of
almond and honey. Try serving this with a broad range of vegetable-based dishes,
pasta and cream sauces, or as an apéritif with foie-gras.

Petite Sirah alert

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Mexican winemaking tradition is built on a historical foundation dating to early
in the 1520’s. Begun by and under the direction of the conquistadors, these
vineyards of ‘New Spain’ eventually became so successful that exports from
Spain to the Americas dwindled. In 1699, in response to the loss of revenues,
Spain’s King Charles II decided to prohibit all wine production in the colonies,
except for the making of a supply for the Church! This prohibition stayed in force
until 1821, finally only ending with Mexico’s independence from colonial rule.
Many missionaries refused to abide by this royal edict and in quiet defiance, they
continued to produce wine locally on a small-scale. Particularly significant in the
region was the work of Jesuit priest Juan Ugarte, who’s credited with planting
the first vines in Baja California when he arrived at the Loretto mission in 1701.

Since then, L.A. Cetto has become Mexico’s most successful exporting winery,
drawing on 1,200 hectares in the Valle de Guadalupe and continues to build on
the expertise and craft provided by its namesake Don Angelo Cetto – an Italian
immigrant who arrived in 1924. Following DéClassé’s recommendation of the
2011 vintage, this medium-bodied red from Anno 2012 again displays that soil,
climate and evolving skill in the vineyards of the arid Baja Peninsula is resulting
in highly competitive alternatives to the much-pricier offerings being produced
just across the border to the north.

Nonetheless, this varietal wine does owe its heritage to California’s Napa Valley
in the 1880’s, where the source grape was first imported and proliferated as a
variety which could resist mildew. In directly referencing the diminutive size of its
berries, early planters confused the vine for a Syrah clone, naming it (aptly, they
thought) ‘Petite Sirah’. Though still subject to continuing, vinicultural speculation,
it is now generally recognized as a variation of the French parent vine ‘Durif’.

With its attendant, naturally high levels of both tannins and acidity, it’s inherited
the ability to age and develop an even richer complexity – but is fully ready now.

L.A. Cetto 2011

L.A. CETTO PETITE SIRAH 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #983742 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 11.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Baja California, Mexico
By: L.A. Cetto
Release Date: Jun 22, 2014

Tasting Note
This earthy, spicy style of wine with formidable tannins and vanilla oakiness is an
ideal partner to serve slightly chilled with hearty and savoury dishes of all sorts
including ratatouille, fajitas, grilled mushrooms, peppers, beef or lamb.

Monastrell Alert

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In the southeastern corner of Spain, not far from Valencia, the emerging region
of the Yecla DO is producing some highly distinctive wines crafted by using both
newer and traditional wine-making methods. With the beginning of a viticulture
dating back to the Phoenician period, followed by Roman development and finally
a near-contemporary golden period in the 18th century, the region’s reputation is
being re-energized by a generation of younger vintners engaged in mastering this
difficult terrain. Low organic content soils and arid conditions, counter-intuitively,
are yielding up very characterful grapes and their resulting wines.

Ramón Castaño, subsequently his 3 sons and now international consumers are
reaping rewards from the investment that began in the 1950’s and then slowly
began coming to fruition in the 80’s – with a shift away from bulk wine production
to the pursuit of quality bottlings based on the strength of local varieties.

To create this 2012 vintage of their special, limited production Solanera line,
Bodega Castaño is blending 70% Monastrell (better known in neighbouring
France as Mourvèdre) with 15% splashes of Cab Sauvignon and Garnacha
Tintorera (Grenache). As suggested in the translation of the wine name’s byline
Viñas Viejas, the fruit is being drawn from some of the vineyard’s oldest, most
mature vines. The unfiltered wine is then bottled after aging for 10 months in a
balanced combination of French and American oak barrels.

Monastrell is the star here and is so in spite of requiring a significantly longer
period of grape cluster maturation, often meaning that harvest doesn’t take
place until mid-October – though this does translate into a broad flavor profile
requiring less help from other varieties to round out the recipe.

After reading this introduction, check the LCBO’s online search engine for local
availability of this limited release, then immediately sprint to the nearest location
and buy as much as you can afford – it will happily cellar for another 2- 4yrs.

Solanera

CASTANO SOLANERA VINAS VIEJAS 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #276162 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.00
14% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Yecla, Spain
By: Bodegas Castaño
Release Date: August 30, 2014

Tasting Note
Try serving with richer food fare such as beef ribs, barbeque pork shoulder,
lentils, wild rice and shitake or portabello mushrooms. Also with dishes spiced
with rosemary and thyme.

Grüner Veltliner Alert

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At home in the main estate in Rohrendorf, the Klosterkeller (cloistral cellar) in
Siegendorf and Schlossweingut (castle winery) of the Sovereign Order of the
Knights of Malta in Mailberg, Austria’s Lenz Moser vintners are building on a
legacy that dates to early in the 11th century! More recently, they’ve been hard
at work since the mid 20th century – progressively establishing high production
standards for a broad range of white and red wines. Among many innovations is
the required commitment by the contract growers to the practices of organic
fertilizing and the natural bio-control of pests and weeds – all aided by the use of
an innovative vine training method called high-trellising.

One of the most important grape varieties grown in Austria, making up approx.
30% of all planted vineyard areas, Grüner Veltliner is gradually regaining a profile
internationally due to a marked increase in popularity and availability on the export
market. It’s an extremely fertile variety that’s a hybrid offspring of parent Traminer
and St. Georgen grapes and requires rigorous pruning and yield regulation so as to maintain its distinct character. It thrives in the deep ‘loess’ (loose, wind-deposited sediment) soils found here in Niederösterreich (lower Austria).

Amply demonstrated in this offering is the fact that Austrian vintners deserve
more international appreciation, particularly for their indigenous, varietal wines
such as Blauer Zweigelt and this week’s DéClassé recommended, textured and
well structured Veltliner. If you like somewhat bigger whites such as barrel-aged
Chardonnay or Gewürztraminer, then you’re in for a treat. Go on, at this modest
price-point – dare to give it a well-chilled whirl and be pleasantly surprised!

Lenz Moser

LENZ MOSER PRESTIGE GRUNER VELTLINER 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product # 71233 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Niederösterreich, Austria
By: Lenz Moser Gesselschaft M.B.H.
Release Date: August 30, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a subtly spicy white wine with some pepper and stone fruit notes. Try with
Asian fare such as Thai Kaffir lime-wrapped chicken skewers, spicy Chinese and
Vietnamese dishes. Also pairs well with fish such as snapper and salads or with a
variety of saltier charcuterie and cheese.

Côtes du Rhône Alert

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Domaine Le Grand Retour is one of a trio of estates owned and overseen by
the 3 Aubert Brothers, who since 1981 have been forwarding the foundation
and traditions begun by their father. The 150 hectares of this property were
originally established by Algerian immigrants who again left the country for a
time, then returned to find their mature plantings ready to bear wine-making
fruit – hence providing the Domaine’s namesake of ‘the major return’!

Here, due south of neighbouring Burgundy, the Rhône’s abundant vineyards
straddle the river for 125 miles from Vienne in the north: producing red wines
exclusively built on the Syrah grape – to just below Avignon in the south: where
the GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) or GSMC (add Carignan) blends are
fashioned. Significant wine-making history here dates back at least to the arrival
of the popes in the Middle Ages with Avignon, more recently, being anointed as
the ‘capital city’ of Rhône wines in 1966.

The DéClassé recommended red this week, is a bold, classic version of a 70%,
20%, 10% GSM extracted from 45yr.-old vine stock rooted in the warm, stony
limestone soils typical of the ‘Plan de Dieu’ sub-region within the larger Côtes
du Rhône Villages appellation. Enjoying a relatively hot and dry, localized climate
that’s ideal for the full maturation of these grape varieties, the geographic plain
which frames this designation of origin encompasses the towns of Jonquieres,
Camaret-sur-Aigues, Violes, as well as, the source of this week’s wine: Travaillan.
Though being a relatively new appellation (having only been created in 2005),
the classification nonetheless indicates the production of better quality wine
than from the fields of the nearby, generic Côtes du Rhône AOC.

This is a secondary release of the same vintage seen on shelves last year at this
time – a Gold Medal winner at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris 2012.

Le Grand Retour

DOMAINE LE GRAND RETOUR PLAN DE DIEU 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #224592 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rhône, France
By: Aubert Frères, Prop.-Récolt.
Release Date: Aug 16, 2014

Tasting Note
Dark, silky-smooth with rich fruit and savory notes, the complexity of aromas and
flavours in this bottling exceeds its general pedigree of an ‘entry level’, southern
Rhône wine. Try serving with duck, lamb, stuffed eggplant, bean stew with sage or
strong cheeses.

Vouvray Alert

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Overlooking both the river and expansive hillsides of its meandering valley, 130
or so hectares of Château Moncontour make up one of the oldest estates in
the Touraine, a sub-region of the Loire – also known as ‘the garden of France’.
The current building dates back to the Renaissance period, having been built by
King Charles VII. Among many noteworthy tales, including being ravaged by an
unfortunate fire during the revolutionary period, the sculpted, ivy-covered, white
fairytale turrets of the château and its adjacent bramble-lined riverbanks were
prized by 19th century, local French writer: Honoré de Balzac, who featured it in
some of his writings while perhaps savouring the bounty of its vineyards!

Like most Crémants, this week’s very effervescent bottling has been produced in
a double fermentation method known as “méthode Champenoise” – in the late
1980’s though, the term was made proprietary to only wines originating from
within the Champagne region to the north-east. This was justified in order to
guard the distinct typicity of the region but doesn’t necessarily suggest greater
quality. Moreover, highly variable pricing for bona-fide Champagnes tends to be
among the most arbitrary of all wine styles – frequently more informed by what
the market is willing to pay rather than how much effort has been invested by
the vintner. Having said all that, note that this week’s DéClassé recommended
varietal offering from the Vouvray AOC is made with 100% Chenin Blanc
grapes and produced in an equivalent manner known as ‘méthode traditionnelle’.

Moncontour’s current custodial vintners are the Feray Family, who since 1994
have been drawing on numerous small plots dotted throughout the villages of
Vouvray for their Chenin Blanc fruit. Influenced by the limestone and clay soils
found here, this variety has a distinct mineral component along with a naturally
high level of acidity – making it an ideal base for sparkling versions of Vouvray
that are also known as ‘pétillant’. Having spent at least 22 months ageing in
the bottle before disgorgement, final corking and release, this is so modestly
priced that you will chide yourself endlessly for not having bought more before
having to wait again until next August or perhaps even a touch longer!

Chateau Moncontour

CHÂTEAU MONCONTOUR TÊTE DE CUVÉE BRUT VOUVRAY
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #207936 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
12% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Loire, France
By: Château Moncontour
Release Date: August 16, 2014

Tasting Note
Straw yellow colour, apricot aromas, a nutty note and lively, refined mousse
make this a refreshing counterpoint for warm weather and ‘al fresco’ meals.
Try as an apéritif or with lighter fare such as fresh salads, goat cheese, pâté
and seasoned crisps or moderately spicy Asian appetizers.

Barbera Alert

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With a history dating to the late nineteenth century, Cantine Giacomo Ascheri
has been doing things their way for some time now. On one level, this means
shying away from the commercial temptation to plant international varieties and
remaining committed to the development of long-standing, indigenous grapes. In
the case of this week’s DéClassé recommendation, this translates as a varietal
bottling of 100% Barbera sourced from their Podere di Rivalta estate between
the communes of La Morra and Verduno – situated at the center of the famed
Piemonte wine-growing region.

Bordered on three sides by the Alps, the region comes by its moniker honestly
‘at the foot of the mountains’. Apart from the featured offering of the Fantonelle
from the Barbera D’Alba DOC, the verdant valleys and plain here produce a wide
range of notable grapes and wine styles including Barolo, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and
various frothy versions of Asti! Food-wise, white Truffles, Porcini mushrooms and
the signature pasta Agnolotti provide a basis for many flavourful pairing options.

In Italy, Barbera is considered to be the quintessential ‘wine of the people’ as it’s
a staple and affordable table wine. With less commercial payoff, it is frequently
assigned to growing in less-desirable plots and as it enjoys fewer advantages of
terroir, it can sometimes be difficult to tame and bring to full maturity. Due to
very unusual though favourable swings in climate during 2011, this example is
nicely rounded and concentrated, demonstrating what’s possible with the grape.
It’s ready to be enjoyed now in a fresh, fruity state or could be allowed to become
more complex with some extra time tucked away. This is a benchmark vintage, so
budget allowing – buy lots and get some of this limited stock now!

Ascheri

ASCHERI FONTANELLE BARBERA D’ALBA 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #982462 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
14% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Piedmont, Italy
By: Ascheri Giacomo
Release Date: August 2, 2014

Tasting Note
Berry, plum, some restrained spice notes and a subtle touch of sweetness
characterize this deep, ruby-red wine. It’s medium-bodied with bright acidity,
so try with roasted meat and game dishes, root vegetables or strong cheeses.

Naoussa Alert

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The Naoussa region in Macedonia, apart from its picturesque landscape of
rolling hills overlooking the central plain, now also carries an official wine zone
designation VQPRD – an acronym suggesting the highest standard of quality for
Greek wines which have a distinct, geographic origin. Due in part to the efforts
of the dynamic Boutari vineyard group, this EU-mandated classification is at the
heart of Greece’s gradual reemergence as a significant wine making source,
with varietal Naoussa wine being the current, best-selling premium export from
Greece worldwide. This storied vintner, established in 1879, also has the highly
enviable reputation (and burden) of being elected as one of several ‘Winery of
the year’ by Wine and Spirit magazine for a remarkable, ongoing 17yr. streak!

Here in Northern Greece, this holding is one of six appellations and is
made up of 9 villages including the region’s namesake: Naoussa. These historic
vineyards are located on the sunny, south-east facing slopes of the foothills
surrounding Mount Vermio, where the calcium-rich soils composed of clay and
loam provides the ideal conditions for the Xinomavro grape. Having originated
and thrived here for countless centuries, the vines have frequently fallen in and
out of commercial favour. More recently, under the regional stewardship by
Boutari, this variety is again amply demonstrating its desirability for producing
big-bodied red wines with the potential to age well and develop added complexity.

Often compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo grape used for the making of Barolo wines,
this vintage is still young and could use some more time to settle down. It is an
excellent example though of a noteworthy, promising bottling that can be had for
a song now, then reward 2-5yrs. of cellaring by becoming a smooth and rounded
collector’s item. Buy 3 – try decanting one bottle for several hours to enjoy now,
then put the other 2 away to grace a sumptuous winter’s meal later on in 2016
or, with the exercising of some discipline, wait even a bit little later!

Boutari Naoussa

BOUTARI NAOUSSA 2009
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #23218 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: Aug 02, 2014

Tasting Note
With flavours of vanilla, cocoa, red berry and cherries, it’s both tart and earthy
which is fairly typical of nutty Naoussa style wines. Try serving with grilled meats,
heavier casseroles, porcini risotto and hard cheeses.

Rosé Alert

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The vineyards of Provence stretch northward from the Mediterranean coast to
the so-called Maritime Alps above Nice and eastward toward the Italian border.
This is a region blessed with an average of 300 days of sunshine and remains
the global gold standard for the production of crisp, dry and refreshing Rosé.

Originally from Barcelonnette in southeastern France and part of the Provençal
nobility since 1421, the Gassier family and Château are now rooted in amongst
40 hectares of vines in the heart of the Arc Valley plain at the foot of Montagne
Sainte-Victoire lying to the north, also framed by the Regagnas hills and Aurelien
mountains to the south and east. The current vineyard property is managed by
the Baron Georges Gassier, heading up the fifth wine growing generation of the
family. Situated a few kilometers outside the charming and historically rich town of
Aix-en-Provence, this relatively unspoiled geography is now classified as natural
reserve (“Grand Site de France”) after having been made famous by noteworthy
artists such as the painter Cézanne, as well as, a favoured haunt of the writers:
Frenchman Emile Zola and the American Earnest Hemingway.

This salmon-pink tinged wine is a classic regional formula, blending Grenache
with Syrah and a splash of some Cinsault for added softness and bouquet. It
stands out as an excellent example of why this charming, though still challenged,
wine style continues to enjoy a renaissance of appreciation. Unfortunately, less
sophisticated North American versions promote the idea that Rosés are, by and
large, sweet and one-dimensional wines driving down consumption of this locally
made output. As for Provence’s sun-drenched bounty, the opposite is at work,
representing about 80% of its wine making – impressively accounting for almost
35% of all French Rosé wine production!

Bottled in the distinctively slender and shapely, curvy glass vessels known locally
as ‘flûte à corset’: derived as an association to the garment and its effect. In this
case, what’s not reined in is an abundance of summertime flavour. Buy several!

Sables d'Azur

GASSIER SABLES D’AZUR ROSÉ 2013
VINTAGES – Product #33621 | 750 mL bottle
Price: $ 14.95
Wine, Rosé Wine
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content : XD

Made in: Provence, France
By: Château Gassier
Release Date: July 19, 2014

Tasting Note
Fresh berries, peach and citrus zest dominate the aromas and flavours of this
dry and vibrant wine, accented with a delightfully crisp finish. It’s an excellent,
chilled apéritif or alongside pan-fried freshwater fish with lemon, sushi, stuffed
peppers, paella, prosciutto and summer salads.

Mencia Alert

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El Bierzo DO is a wine region tucked away in the province of León – among the
most exciting Spanish frontiers and source of some of its most qualitative wine.
The fertile plain and forests of this lush valley situated between the Montes de
Leon and Cordillera Cantábrica mountain ranges is referred to as the ‘gateway
to Galicia’ as it’s geography is a funnel into this verdant corner of northwestern
Spain. Though it’s a relatively small wine growing area, it benefits from a special
micro-climate that is equally conducive to cultivation of both red and white vine
stock. Home to 55 principle vineyards and despite being a lesser-known region
in terms of international markets – it’s producing an impressive11 million liters
of wine annually and still sustainably expanding.

Under the watchful guidance of master wine maker, José Luis Vázquez Santín,
Bodega del Abad (‘the Abbot’s Cellar’) has only been active as an independent
producer since 2003, but already boasts a loyal following that was reinforced
by a surprising release a couple of years ago of a 2001 Crianza-grade cache
that had been hiding somewhere in the very back corners of their cellars. This
week’s offering of a 2006 Crianza is also surprising. In both cases, we are well
beyond the typical 2 years of combined ageing in barrel and bottle mandated
by Spanish wine laws. This presumably translates into the vintner exercising
a significant amount of patience in deciding not to release stock before better
assuring that the vintage has the right balance of having become fully rounded
and mature but still possessing a fruitful vigor.

These attributes are due in part to modern production techniques being applied
but also a result of the innate potential of Mencia. Indigenous to the Bierzo, this
variety is now considered to be one of the four most important Spanish reds.
Producing small, compact clusters of medium-sized berries, its newfound
popularity is based on an ability to yield age-worthy wine at a relatively modest
price point. In the case of this week’s featured vintner, Bodega del Abad’s 35
hectares of vineyards are located up on steep terrain made up of quartzite and
slate-laden soils. The mix of old vines, with some approaching 70 years-of-age,
are producing meticulously handpicked and hand-sorted grapes, creating wine
with a characteristic, velvety palate.

This is ready to go now and likely to fly off the shelves quickly – so buy enough
to get you through the upcoming Fall and Winter while you can!

Abad Dom Bueno Crianza

ABAD DOM BUENO CRIANZA 2006
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #244699 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
Alcohol/Vol. 13.5%
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Bierzo, Spain
By: Bodega Del Abad
Release Date: July 19, 2014

Tasting Note
Having aged gracefully, this offers juicy red cherry and currant flavours over a
core of gentle tannins. The refreshing acidity enhances the soft accents of black
pepper and tea leaf notes. Serve with rich poultry dishes, roast leg of lamb,
marinated steak or spicy beef empanadas.