Category Archives: Red Wine

Limarí Syrah Especial

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Distinctively known to climatologists as the driest, non-polar geography on Earth, the Atacama Desert is desolate and desiccated to such extremes that it’s biologically sterile, with some zones having never recorded any measurable rainfall–ever. Here in the northern third of Chile, to an unpractised outside eye, the cultivating of fruit at the outer fringe of an expanding desertification seems a futile exercise? Undaunted, the innovative and resourceful Chileans are reapplying their ancient knowledge while employing modern and sustainable techniques such as drip irrigation–to excel in the face of these challenges. Also blessed with a relatively pest-free environment, they’re naturally using organic and biodynamic farming practices. Healthier and economical in terms of production costs, the sum of this viticultural intelligence is discernibly imparting a fresh character into their premium wines. It also demonstrates Chile’s largely
unrivaled and fruitful export of new-age-winemaking expertise!

Just southwest of this hostile territory, the Limarí Valley stretches east to west from the Andean foothills across to the Pacific shore. Open at the seaward end, the valley acts as a funnel for the low-lying, billowing coastal fog named Garúa or Camanchaca by the indigenous Aymara and Atacama Indians. In having passed on the long understood benefits of this climate dynamic, modern descendants continue to explore and exploit its magical properties both as air-borne irrigation and air conditioning. Softly blanketing the vine stock with precious moisture each morning, the fog then gives way to an equally significant cooling breeze later in the day; providing some critical respite in an otherwise hot, semi-arid landscape.

vina-tabali-vineyard

The growing of vines is not new to Limarí agriculture as some of these vineyards were established in the mid-16th century; roughly corresponding with the arrival of Spanish Conquistadors. In more recent ages, the majority of plantings here are destined to produce table grapes or lesser grades of wine grape suitable for the distilling of Chile’s trademark brandy, Pisco, also generically referred to as Aguardiente (firewater). A quarter century or so on from the introduction in the 1990’s of Noble varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, this maturing vine stock coupled with the savvy of winemakers like the heralded Felipe Müller is now yielding world-class, varietal wine in a range of accessible price points.

For this DéClassé recommended, limited-edition, Viña Tabalí Reserva Especial Syrah 2012, the fruit is sourced from an alluvial terrace (former seabed) of clay, chalk and limestone lying adjacent to the Limarí River; also acting as a conduit for mineral-rich meltwater that flows downslope from the Andes Mountains. This substantial wine has an appealing balance of tannin structure and intriguing softness; helped by a year maturing in a combination of new and second-use, French oak barrels (and now, an added year in bottle). This will continue to cellar for some time, but if you prefer your red wine with a touch of acidic brightness still present in the fruit—then start drinking!

Tabali

TABALI RESERVA ESPECIAL SYRAH 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #213538 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in Limari Valley, Chile
By: Viña Tabalí
Release Date: April 30, 2016

Tasting Note
This fairly rounded Syrah gives off dark fruit aromas, juicy cherry and black plum flavours with the expected peppery spice and bitter chocolate notes that define the grape. Try with roasted lamb, braised short rib and leeks, grilled steak with Chilean salsa or bacon-wrapped chicken tornadoes and peppercorn sauce.

Rhône Grenache Noir

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Not only a natural kingdom populated with green oak, aromatic Mediterranean shrub, and stands of Aleppo pine trees, the small rumpled mountain chain called the Dentelles de Montmirail is also home to a group of historically and culturally preserved hamlets like Sablet, Gigondas, and this week’s featured wine source, Séguret. Anchored and rising upward from the jagged lace work (dentelles) of limestone outcrops, the tight cluster of Terra Cotta roofed stone houses, shops, and cobbled alleys reveal the town’s medieval history while evoking more distant roots. For over 500 years as of 1274, this large parcel of land and connecting waterways were part of a Papal realm known as the Comtat Venaissin. Ceded to the Catholic church by various minor French rulers, the enclave was a home for a succession of 9 displaced Popes who had fled Rome due to political revolt. It remained in their control up until 1791 when it was reintegrated into France as part of a new order that followed the French revolution. Geographically framed by the Rhône River bank to the west and the modern boundary of Provence to the south, this desirable region that includes Châteauneuf-du-Pape (the Papal Castle) had already benefited from the agricultural influence of Greek settlers who planted Olive groves, and Romans who developed regionally-appropriate grape cultivars, built terraced vineyards and exported their wine via barge down the Rhône and its tributaries!

Winemakers in the Southern Rhône region have been cultivating Grenache Noir and Syrah grapes for at least 14 centuries. Well suited to a regional climate in which daytime heat is tempered by the cooling Mistral breezes, and where the sufficiently long growing season allows the fruit to reach full maturity, these two plump and prolific varieties are the backbone for the Rhône’s signature, blended red wine recipes. In more recent history, Cave Le Gravillas began producing high quality, terroir-specific wines in the mid-1930’s and with multiple generations of practice later, they’ve confidently grown into an internationally recognized brand.

seguret

Séguret is one of 18 select villages who are permitted to add their name to the AOC designation of Côtes du Rhône – Villages. Generally, ‘Villages’ suggests that their wines are produced under more stringent requirements of planting density, harvest yields, blending proportions and minimum alcohol levels. Whether or not these factors directly translate into a consistently better grade of wine than the more generic standard is debatable, and variable from year-to-year. What’s less uncertain, is that the terroirs surrounding each village, coupled with localized finishing traditions do produce discernibly distinctive flavour profiles.

For my tastes, as an admitted fan of medium to full-bodied, earthy, berry-forward wine with polished tannins and less oak influence, this Villages – Séguret 2014 is a balanced bottling that’s equally satisfying when served up as apéritif or with dinner fare. Beyond those baseline credentials, note that it earned a Gold Medal at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris in 2015; in a category always packed with notable competition from the Rhôneland vineyards!

Le Gravillas

LE GRAVILLAS COTES DU RHONE – VILLAGES SEGURET 2014
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #309260 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
14% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in Rhône, France
By: Le Gravillas
Release Date: March 19, 2016

Tasting Note
As Grenache makes up most of the blend, rich black fruit aromas and flavours dominate this bottling, with the Syrah adding some zippy pepper notes. Try this alongside braised or curried lamb, beef Kefta brochettes or spicy squash tagine.

El Bierzo Mencia

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Among the most exciting of Spanish wine producing frontiers, the El Bierzo DO is a unique part of the autonomous region of Castilla y León. Romans prized this land as a rich mining source of minerals and gold; Christians guarded it with a network of 300 castles and fortified monasteries, effectively containing Moorish expansion in the 8th and 9th centuries; Castilian knight Don Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (aka ‘El Cid’) is arguably its most famous son; the crusading Templars are its best-known religious order, and Spain’s most iconic Medieval royalty, Ferdinand and Isabella. Tucked quietly into the historical legacy is the landscape and the winemakers of the Bierzo Valley. Framed between the Montes de Leon and Cordillera Cantábrica mountains, this square-shaped valley of a fertile plain, surrounding stands of forest and steep vineyard terraces acts as a geographic funnel into the lush northwestern corner of the Iberia. Referred to as the ‘gateway to Galicia’, it’s part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route, providing the speculation that it was the religiously motivated travelers who first brought vines to the area? Though relatively small as a wine region, its vineyards benefit from an Atlantic influenced maritime microclimate, making it equally conducive to the cultivation of red and white grapevine. Curiously, it remains one of the less well-known Spanish designated DO’s in the attention of international markets–despite the impressive fact that its 55 or so Bodegas are prolifically producing 11million litres of wine annually!

Bodega del Abad (the ‘Abbot’s Cellar’) has only been active as an independent producer since 2003, but boasts a loyal following that was expanded by a surprise release several years ago of a 2001 Crianza-grade cache that had been hiding somewhere in the back corners of their cellars. This DéClassé featured 2006 bottling is also surprising. In both cases, the wine is well beyond the mandated 2 years of a combined barrel and bottle aging required to qualify for a Crianza designation. Evidently, this vintner has exercised patience to assure that the vintage has achieved a balance of being fully rounded and mature while possessing fruitful vigour; wrapped in delicious chocolate-tinged flavours.

bodega-del-abad

35 hectares of Bodega del Abad vineyard are located on high terrain made up of slate and quartzite soils, imparting a discernible minerality into the profile. The property’s mix of old vines, with some approaching 70 years-of-age, continue to yield meticulously handpicked and sorted fruit; creating wines with a distinct aromatic character, medium-body, and preserved acidity. These attributes are a winemaking accomplishment, due in part to modern production techniques, but they’re also a result of the innate potential of Mencia. Indigenous to Bierzo, with some spillover into Galicia, this resurgent variety has been anointed as one of the four most important Spanish red wine grapes. Producing
compact clusters of medium-sized, violet-blue berries, its renaissance is based on an ability to generate age-worthy wine, at a relatively modest price point.

This bottling is ready to go now but will also hold up for nicely for several more years. It will likely fly off the shelves as word of this formerly hidden gem spreads. So buy enough to get you through the Spring, Summer and Fall dinner seasons!

Abad Dom Bueno Crianza

ABAD DOM BUENO CRIANZA 2006
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #244699 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
Alcohol/Vol. 13.5%
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Bierzo, Spain
By: Bodega Del Abad
Release Date: March 5, 2016

Tasting Note
Having aged gracefully, this has soft notes of black pepper and tea leaf wrapped around the juicy cassis, plum and currant flavours. With a core of gentle tannins, try serving this food friendly wine with rich poultry dishes, marinated steak kabob, roast leg of lamb, or spicy beef empanadas.

Padthaway Shiraz

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The Limestone Coast lies about halfway between Melbourne and Adelaide, and its agricultural regions have been diligently diversifying their traditional farming of cereals, pasture seed, vegetables and livestock grazing. As of the 1960s, they’ve also embraced the stepped challenges/rewards of grape growing and winemaking — so much so that they now produce 20% of South Australia’s total. Spanning five family generations, over a 165-year history, the Bryson farming clan has made a significant contribution to the shift, having invested the last 50 yrs. in refining the cultivation of premium-grade, red and white wine varieties, on their own Phylloxera-free rootstock. Clearly, all the vineyard management details matter to the dedicated trio of Bryson brothers; they’re also at ease with the sentiment that what ends up in the bottle is serious fun!

Padthaway is an emerging, less-renowned member of the six sub-regions lying within the Limestone Coast boundary; directly competing with the established international profile of neighbouring Coonawarra: rightfully and highly regarded for the qualities of its benchmark bottlings of Shiraz. The Potawurutj Aborigines coined Padthaway’s name (‘good water’), referencing the underground aquifer system and the abundant surface supply. When the forbearers of the Bryson’s and other Europeans arrived in Padthaway during the 1850’s, the bio-diverse landscape (ancient seabed) was still extensively covered by shallow freshwater and so became known as ‘Mosquito Plains’.

Among many desirable attributes at work in this terroir, including sun-drenched exposures in daytime offset by the cool coastal breezes at night are the prized Terra Rosa soils. Often associated with the Mediterranean basin generally, and Italy in particular, this composition of ancient weathered limestone results from the residual clay and non-soluble rock becoming oxidized (rusting); yielding the characteristic reddish colour; imbuing the soil with essential minerals and good drainage for the vine’s root system. Punctuating 190 hectares on the Bryson Estate are outcrops and clusters of unusual, bulbous granite rock formations; providing an evocative namesake and brand graphic for their baseline range of wines: the Jip Jip Rocks.

This week’s DéClassé featured varietal bottling of Shiraz was finished by blending batches from the 2013 vintage, after spending a year in a combination of new and used, American and French oak barrels. With another 15 months in the bottle, it’s ready to go now, though it will develop even more balance if left on your storage rack for several more years. If you like your dry reds on the plush side, with some youthful fruitiness and acidic vibrancy still at the forefront, then you should rush to the LCBO’s Vintages section ahead of the anticipated crowd — and buy a bunch!

Jip Jip Rocks

JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2013
VINTAGES/LCBO – Product #673897 | 750 mL bottle
Price $16.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in South Australia, Australia
By: Bryson Family
Release Date: Feb 20, 2016

Tasting Note
Along with the dominant currant and earthy cherry notes, this fulsome red also incorporates subtle flavours of mocha and clove. Lightly spicy on the nose, the oak influence is deftly incorporated into the wine’s supple body. Try serving with marinated flank steak, smoked ham hock, hearty stews or mature cheeses.

Naoussa Xinomavro

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From antiquity through to the modern age, the often hotly debated cultural and territorial legacy of Macedonia has produced a wealth of opposing contentions. The uncertainty about its people’s place within or aside from the Greek patchwork is, in some part, fueled by the generalized fame of Macedonia’s best-known son, Alexander the Great. Tutored by Aristotle and steeped in Homer’s mythic tales, he could proficiently read, speak and conduct himself as a Greek: as a complementary culture to his native Macedonian and its Slav heritage. Under his leadership, the vast expansion of the so-called Greek Empire would eventually dominate the Balkans, Asia Minor, Central Asia, Mesopotamia, Persia and Egypt. Ironically for Greeks, the rise to this unrivalled supremacy in the ancient world began with Alexander’s military campaign to subjugate rebellious city-states in Greece’s homelands. In the wash of history, Alexander has become viewed as archetypal Greek, and the former realm of the Macedonian Kingdom
has been partitioned among neighbouring territories in the Balkans and Bulgaria. The portion that remains within the present-day boundaries of northern Greece contains some of the region’s most prized vineyards; unique cool climate terroirs, and specialized cultivation of one indigenous variety for the last 1,500 years!

The sub-region of Naoussa, along with its surprising geography of snowcapped mountains, framing the forested foothills that spill onto a verdant central plain, now also has an official VQPRD wine zone designation. The acronym’s aim is to promote the highest quality standards for Greek wines and mark their distinct origins within the country. Mainly due to the leadership efforts of the dynamic Boutari vineyard group, developing this classification and its requirements are propelling Greece’s re-anointment as a reliable source of premium winemaking.

As an example, this week’s DéClassé featured Naoussa 2013 is a polished version of varietal Xinomavro wine; currently, the best-selling, ambassador wine style for Greece’s worldwide export. As of 1879, 137-years of accumulated expertise by this storied vintner has culminated in the enviable burden of being a benchmark for how well that modern Greek winemakers are doing overall. Year in and out, they substantiate their global reputation by consistently producing well-crafted wines across a range of grades. The 2013 vintage of this entry-level offering is no exception to the rule; it shows unsurpassable quality at a $13.95 price-point!

Approx. 100km from Thessaloniki, this particular estate is both the oldest and original one of the six regional appellations that Boutari has land holdings in. Among the region’s nine villages that include the region’s namesake: Naoussa, vineyards are located on the sunny, southeast-facing slopes surrounding Mount Vermio. Irrigated by runoff, these calcium-rich clay and loam soils provide the perfect conditions for Xinomavro grape growing. Despite being a prolific variety that’s thrived here for eternity, the grape has frequently fallen in and out of commercial favour. Under the stewardship by Boutari, this variety is resurgent and demonstrating its desirability for producing satisfying medium-bodied wine with the potential to age and develop complexity. Rightly compared to Italy’s
Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barbaresco and Barolo, it shares many of the basic attributes such as ample acidity levels married with firm tannins.

This vintage is a charmingly youthful bottling that can be had inexpensively and then reward 3-5yrs. of cellaring by becoming even smoother and more rounded. Buy at least 3. Decant one for several hours to enjoy now and stow the others away to grace a sumptuous winter’s meal later on in 2021. Or, in exercising some admirable discipline, wait even a bit later for the magic to happen!

Naoussa

BOUTARI NAOUSSA 2013
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #23218 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: February 6, 2016

Tasting Note
This distinctive red wine has flavours of cherries, raspberry with hints of vanilla and cocoa. Fairly typical of Naoussa style wines, it’s pleasingly tart and earthy in a balanced combination. Try serving as apéritif with hard cheeses or with mains of grilled kabobs, hearty casseroles, and porcini risotto.

Côtes du Rhône GSM

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Bookended to the top and bottom by its equally renowned neighbours, Burgundy and Provence, the Côtes du Rhône region straddles the namesake river’s banks for approximately 200kms from Vienne in the north to just below Avignon in the south. Part of Narbonese Gaul, Romans founded terraced vineyards here late in the 2nd-century BC, though some significant development in wine-making history corresponds with the arrival of Popes in the 14th-century. Displaced from their traditional seat in Rome due to the so-called western schism, a splitting of the Catholic Church, and hemmed in by the upheaval of France and England’s 100 Years’ War, the temporary papal retreat to Avignon would be prolonged for nine successions. Competitively inclined, the Popes and Cardinals established farm estates on tracts of Côtes du Rhône lands that had been ceded to the church. Gradually expanding the vineyard plantings created a local wine source and provided revenue by exporting the surplus production. 500 years onward, long after the Popes had left to reoccupy the Vatican, Avignon was again anointed in 1966 – this time with the secular designation of ‘Capital City’ of all Rhône wines.

Vintners along the somewhat cooler stretch of the valley north of Montelimar make varietal wines exclusively with Syrah grapes, whereas wineries in southern zones produce the classic GSM blends built with Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. This DéClassé recommended Château Le Grand Retour – Plan de Dieu is a robust 60/30/10% GSM blend extracted from 45-year-old vine stock. Rooted in stony limestone or red clay soils typical of the Plan de Dieu sub-region, this geographic ‘God’s Plain’ has a localized, hot and dry climate, making the terroir ideal for the full maturation of its signature grape varieties. Lying at the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail foothills, the plain encompasses vineyards that surround the towns of Camaret-sur-Aigues, Violes, Jonquieres, as well as, the source of this week’s feature bottle from Travaillan. Despite being a relatively new appellation created in 2005, the Plan de Dieu AOP classification with the ‘Villages’ qualifier, indicates a more distinctive quality of wine than that of the generic Côtes du Rhône AOP. The unique bottle style also features Plan de Dieu as an embossed coat-of-arms: a cluster of grapes framed by a halo!

Château Le Grand Retour is one of a trio of winemaking estates that the three Aubert brothers have overseen since the 1980s, carrying forward and further developing the foundation and traditions begun by their father. 150 hectares of this property was originally established by Algerian immigrants, who again left France for a time. On returning, they found the now mature plantings ready to bear fruit–providing the inspiration for the Domaine’s name, ‘the major return.’

The same sentiment can also be applied here to this bottling since it’s become a yearly Vintages release that always seems to exceed the generalized pedigree as an entry-level, southern Rhône wine. In my pocketbook, this Plan de Dieu trumps lower-end offerings of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – and for the same price, I can buy 3!

Plan de Dieu

PLAN DE DIEU COTES DU RHONE – VILLAGES 2013
VINTAGES/LCBO – Product #224592 | 750 mL bottle
Price $14.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in Rhône, France
By: Earl Aubert
Release Date: Jan. 9, 2016

Tasting Note
Dark Ruby coloured with a supple mouthfeel, this un-oaked and pleasingly rustic red combines rich fruit and savoury notes. The aroma and flavour complexity of berry, chocolate and herbs make it a good match with strong cheeses, roast duck and lamb, stuffed eggplant or a mixed bean stew with sage.

Penedès Cabernet Sauvignon

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Founded in the 1870’s by the patriarch Jaime Torres Vendrell, five generations at
Bodegas Torres have been a significant driving force in putting Spain’s Penedès
DO region on the international winemaking map. Numerous obstacles along the
way, including the partial destruction of the winery during the Spanish Civil War
in 1936-39, have inspired an evolution away from bulk wine production to now
thriving as a renowned bottler of vintage offerings in 50 different styles. They’re
a compelling demonstration that large commercial producers can maintain high standards in their regionally distinctive winemaking. In having become one of
Spain’s most recognizable brands, they produce an annual flood of accomplished
wines, which dependably flow out from an impressive cache of 2O, OOO barrels;
stored in stacks along 2 kilometers of underground galleries!

Geographically book-ended between the inland Serra de Miralles mountains and
the balmy Mediterranean coastline south of Barcelona, Penedès is sub-divided
into three regions of progressively higher altitude: Bajo, Medio and Alto Penedès.
Based in the heartland town of Vilafranca del Penedès since its inception as a
company, the Torres family has progressively expanded its holdings to 1,700
hectares of prime vineyards. In a region that’s arguably best known for sparkling
Cava, the Bodega has some also-famous neighbours like Freixenet and Codorniu.

Grapevines have been cultivated along the Mediterranean shores of the Iberian
Peninsula since the Phoenician period, though for this DéClassé recommended
blended red, Torres Gran Coronas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, it was Miguel
A. Torres who had the vision of introducing Cabernet Sauvignon to Penedès
during the 1960’s and 70’s. Along with promoting the French Emperor of Reds
hybrid as being well suited for cultivation in Catalonia, his other innovation was
the use of the indigenous Tempranillo grape as a blending partner. Owing to its
nature as fast-ripening fruit, the round and black-skinned grape is affectionately
known in Catalan as Ull de Llebre (Eye of the Hare).

A perennial listing in the LCBO’s Vintages Essentials catalogue, this remarkable
value is further sale-priced through to the weekend. The enduring appeal and
charm of this fairly fulsome offering is that it’s not overly deep or complex. It is
well-rounded, well-crafted and fairly priced for a Reserva bottling that’s been four
years in the making and maturing. Heading into a new year is an opportune time
to revisit the median baseline quality of Catalonian table wine. 2 bottles (or more)
of this pleasing 2011 vintage should be an encouraging starting point!

Gran Coronas

TORRES GRAN CORONAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA (V)
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #36483 | 750 mL bottle
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D
Limited Time Offer
Was: $ 19.95
Now: $ 17.95
Until January 3, 2016

Made in: Penedès, Spain
By: Miguel Torres S.A.
Release Date: April 15, 2015

Tasting Note
This medium to full-bodied red has aromas of dark currant and plum with light
smoky notes of oak and clove spice. With flavours of ripe black cherry and vanilla,
it’s perfect for charcuterie, aged cheeses, filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms,
grilled lamb, roast veal or pork sirloin and fresh fig.

Monastrell Alert

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Toward the south-east corner of the Iberian Peninsula, about halfway between
the world-renowned orange groves of Valencia and the gothic/baroque facades
of Murcia, lies a tiny sub-region called Yecla, and it’s producing 7 million litres of
wine annually. As striking, is that it’s a rocky near-desert zone in a province that
otherwise enjoys a mild continental climate, fertile soil and the benefits of being
close by to the Mediterranean sea. It’s been blessed with these factors since a
time of Argaric Bronze-age settlement. Its allure attracted the wine-interested
Phoenicians, who passed their agricultural knowledge and secrets onto thirsty
Romans. It was certainly part of the appeal for Moors as they expanded north
from Morocco, establishing Arab Taifas (fiefdoms) in the 9th century. The bounty
kept them around for 700-800 years, all-the-while cultivating grapevine simply
to delight in its fresh fruit. They did so right up until the 15th century when the
fiercely competing kingdoms of Castille and Aragon managed to put aside their
other ambitions long enough to supplant the so-called Moorish occupation. The
celebrating Christians immediately began fermenting wine from grapes again!

Throughout the first half of the 20th century, and fairly common in the wine world
of the age, Yecla was mostly outputting bulk wine with high alcohol content. As
part of a 50-year transformation in New Spain winemaking, Bodegas Castaño is
a regional leader among 11 family estates that comprise the Yecla DO. Here in
the high drier zone of Campo Arriba, traditional practice is being re-energized by
innovation such as cold processing. Mastering a difficult terrain of low organic
content and arid 40° climate presents obvious challenges, but it also reveals an
underlying strength: gnarly old bush vines, whose rootstock was less-affected by
the Phylloxera scourge that wiped out most of Europe’s vines in the late 1800’s.
In being both old and stressed by the growing conditions, the vines produce small
yields of quality grapes, lending regional distinctiveness to very characterful wine.

To craft the 2013 vintage of the specialty Solanera line, Bodega Familia Castaño
blends 70% Monastrell (Mourvèdre) with 15% splashes of both Cab Sauvignon
and Garnacha Tintorera (Grenache). Monastrell is the star here, despite taxing
the grower’s patience with its slow and long arc of development before reaching
full maturity. Typically harvested in mid-October, the prolonged growing period of
the grape pays off by providing a broader profile of flavour and structure for the
base wine; requiring less help from other varieties to round out the balance. As
referenced in the wine name’s byline, Viñas Viejas, these fruit clusters are being
drawn from some of the oldest stock in the vineyard, resulting in an appealingly
rustic wine style that’s purposefully bottled unfiltered.

With this introduction, immediately check the LCBO’s online search (see link in
the margin) for the availability of this limited release, then sprint to the location;
buy as much as you can afford. It’s ready now. Decant for an hour. It will cellar
for another 2-4 years though you’ll find it hard to hold much past New Years!

solanera

CASTANO SOLANERA VINAS VIEJAS 2013
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #276162 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 16.95
14% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: Yecla, Spain
By: Bodegas Castaño
Release Date: November 28, 2015

Tasting Note
With substantial aroma and flavours of acacia flower, berries and black currant,
try serving this fulsome wine with richer food fare such as braised beef ribs, pork,
hearty gazpacho, seasoned paellas or wild rice and Portabello mushrooms.

Nouveau Alert

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Beaujolais, one of the world’s oldest wine regions, has always produced a share
of unassuming young wines not destined for anyone’s cellar. Of the total output
of its regionally distinctive varietal wines, nearly 30% is exclusively finished and
marketed under the Nouveau designation. They invented the concept; they’re
arguably still the best at making it. Historically, the barely-off-the-vine, bright and
uncomplicated batches of wine were intended to be consumed as a celebration of
the current vintages harvest, Vin de l’année. Following on long summer months
spent waiting and praying for the season to be a bountiful one, came arduous
weeks of picking, hauling, destemming, sorting and a short fermenting period.
For the dedicated labourers, being gifted a few bottles of the freshly made juice
was a small and well-earned reward. The shipping of Beaujolais Nouveau abroad
as a major export, though, is a relatively contemporary concept that only became
widespread in the middle of the 1950’s; hitting its commercial peak around 1980.
This unique timed-release on the 3rd Thursday in November remains celebratory,
but perhaps has become misunderstood or misrepresented over time.

In general, over-production or indiscriminate winemaking by some of the largest
producers have given this specialty wine a mixed reputation; confusing ever-more
discerning drinkers with undue levels of aromatic character such as ‘bubblegum.’
and ‘twizzler’ (red licorice). No doubt, some of the opportunistic bottling that’s on
offer is fairly reflected by these descriptors. However, many of the small, and a
few large producers are capably fashioning a better balance in the quality of the
fruity and charmingly simple wines that are possible with the Gamay grape: the
region’s pleasingly tart, flagship variety also known as Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc.
Among the leading vintners is Joseph Drouhin, originally hailing from yet another
noteworthy wine region, Chablis. With a move to Burgundy in 1880, he founded
his new Maison in the wine capital city of Beaune. Building on his pioneering work,
four succeeding family generations have continued the refinement; progressively
becoming masters of both the Nouveau and regular Beaujolais wine styles.

In order to produce, bottle, and release the wine within a few weeks of picking,
vintners use carbonic maceration as an alternate method to accelerate the
finishing process. Unlike a more traditional practice of crushing the grapes and
allowing the juice to ferment alongside the skins, leeching out a deeper colour
and higher levels of tannin into the mash; in carbonic maceration, the fruit is left
whole, in closed vats that have been flushed with carbon dioxide to purge oxygen.
The grapes begin fermenting inside their skin before the combined pressure of
the fruit’s weight and the released gasses squeezes the alcoholized juice out.
Filtered and briefly aged in stainless steel tanks, the process yields a very lightly pigmented and almost tannin-free Nouveau wine.

For this week’s DéClassé feature Joseph Drouin Beaujolais Villages Nouveau,
note that the Villages designation represents a qualitatively better grade of the
terroir-specific source of the grapes. Along with some added care in processing,
these factors result in slightly higher pricing than the other standard fare. Dare
to invest a few extra dollars, to regain an appreciation for this iconic wine style.
For those that deride Nouveau, generally, as being immature wine lacking depth
and dimension; pay little attention, they’re truly missing the delightful point!

Joseph Drouhin

JOSEPH DROUHIN BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES NOUVEAU
VINTAGES – Product #113266 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
12.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content: XD

Made in: Beaujolais, France
By: Joseph Drouhin S.A.
Release Date: November 19, 2015

Tasting Note
This light Garnet-coloured, easy drinking wine, has a zingy bouquet and flavours
of cherry and berries. Try serving very lightly chilled as an apéritif with pâté and
savoury hors d’oeuvre, Gruyère cheese and beef fondue or substantial main
dishes such as roasted poultry and herb stuffed pork.

Appassimento Alert

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Still hard at work in the renowned and garden-like vineyards surrounding Verona,
an unbroken line of vignaiolo at Masi have built up, then diligently passed on their
wine-making knowledge. As of acquiring the Vaio dei Masi namesake property in
1772, these family vintners have steadily developed a largely unrivalled mastery
with the region’s indigenous grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Up until
the early medieval period, the desirable hillside tracts of fertile soil and prolific
vines, dependably fed by a lattice of brooks in the Adige River watershed, were
independently named valleys: Vallis Provinianensis; rolling out northwest of the
famed city and vallis Veriacus to the east. In time, the reference to these and an adjacent plain were combined, becoming vallis Pulicella. Modern Italians along
with the rest of an appreciative wine world, now succinctly call it Valpolicella.

Circa the 12th century and onwards, the ‘valley of many cellars’ has been under
the stewardship of the Veronese nobility and prosperous mercantile collaborators
who would follow in their footsteps. Multi-generational family oversight of long
standing estates while drawing on locally rooted agricultural expertise, has been
a guiding formula for consistently good winemaking. Since the glory days of the
Serenissima Republia (‘Serene Republic of Venice’), promoting distinctive quality
levels while also bolstering the export potential, has developed hand-in-hand. It
makes for very good business. It might also reveal that the process of becoming
a large and successful vintner doesn’t necessarily translate into production of
unremarkable wine. It is possible to output large amounts of well-made wine, so
long as basic cultivation balances are maintained: judicious pruning to compact
yields, optimal planting density and an indispensable hands-on tending to the fruit.

This week’s DéClassé featured Boscaini family are doing well at balancing scale
with the maintenance of quality–by continuing to explore innovation and applying
the updated techniques to traditional recipes. Among the host of noteworthy
wines from this globally recognized brand is a so-called ‘Super Venetian.’ Making
a relatively modern debut in the mid-1960’s, this wine’s finishing process is yet
another variant of the Greek grape drying technique called passito, then further
refined in Roman winemaking. Historically used to create sweet wine styles such
as Recioto della Valpolicella, it was gradually adapted under the umbrella term of Appassimento, yielding a range of drier, though still immensely rich wines such
as Amarone and various types of Doppio Passo or Ripasso: like the 2011 vintage
of Campofiorin, whose striking label bears a bold Latin subtitle and aspiration:
Nectar Angelorum Hominibus (‘Nectar of the angels for men’)!

When this bottling and it’s patented finishing process was introduced 50 years
ago, it was hailed as a new category of wine. The innovate use of freshly dried
grapes, as opposed to second-use of Amarone must, prompts a slightly more
vigourous second fermentation and enriching of the young base wine. Practiced
drinkers of Ripasso will nonetheless recognize its heritage, conveying a plummy,
plush and fulsome style; one which always seems more at home with the richer
food fare around Christmas. Usually selling just above the traditional DéClassé
price-point, the current $3-off sale makes it a bargain; as a robust dinner wine
addition. Remarkably, this has sufficient body to withstand several decades of
cellaring–buy plenty and see if you’re able to hold onto some!

Campofiorin

MASI CAMPOFIORIN 2011
LCBO Product #155051 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 19.95
Sale $ 16.95
13% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in Veneto, Italy
By: Masi Agricola S.P.A.
Release Date: Sale through November 28, 2015

Tasting Note
This has a densely layered set of aromas and flavours including cherry and plum,
currants and sweet spices. As expected from a Ripasso wine, it’s velvety and
versatile; suitable to richer food fare. Try as apéritif with spicy meat-filled Phyllo
wraps, baked and well-aged cheeses, or to keep up with Bavette steak, grilled
lamb kabobs and suckling pork with fire-roasted vegetables.