Category Archives: Red Wine

Naoussa Alert

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The Naoussa region in Macedonia, apart from its picturesque landscape of
rolling hills overlooking the central plain, now also carries an official wine zone
designation VQPRD – an acronym suggesting the highest standard of quality for
Greek wines which have a distinct, geographic origin. Due in part to the efforts
of the dynamic Boutari vineyard group, this EU-mandated classification is at the
heart of Greece’s gradual reemergence as a significant wine making source,
with varietal Naoussa wine being the current, best-selling premium export from
Greece worldwide. This storied vintner, established in 1879, also has the highly
enviable reputation (and burden) of being elected as one of several ‘Winery of
the year’ by Wine and Spirit magazine for a remarkable, ongoing 17yr. streak!

Here in Northern Greece, this holding is one of six appellations and is
made up of 9 villages including the region’s namesake: Naoussa. These historic
vineyards are located on the sunny, south-east facing slopes of the foothills
surrounding Mount Vermio, where the calcium-rich soils composed of clay and
loam provides the ideal conditions for the Xinomavro grape. Having originated
and thrived here for countless centuries, the vines have frequently fallen in and
out of commercial favour. More recently, under the regional stewardship by
Boutari, this variety is again amply demonstrating its desirability for producing
big-bodied red wines with the potential to age well and develop added complexity.

Often compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo grape used for the making of Barolo wines,
this vintage is still young and could use some more time to settle down. It is an
excellent example though of a noteworthy, promising bottling that can be had for
a song now, then reward 2-5yrs. of cellaring by becoming a smooth and rounded
collector’s item. Buy 3 – try decanting one bottle for several hours to enjoy now,
then put the other 2 away to grace a sumptuous winter’s meal later on in 2016
or, with the exercising of some discipline, wait even a bit little later!

Boutari Naoussa

BOUTARI NAOUSSA 2009
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #23218 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 13.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Naoussa, Greece
By: Jean Boutari & Fils S.A.
Release Date: Aug 02, 2014

Tasting Note
With flavours of vanilla, cocoa, red berry and cherries, it’s both tart and earthy
which is fairly typical of nutty Naoussa style wines. Try serving with grilled meats,
heavier casseroles, porcini risotto and hard cheeses.

Mencia Alert

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El Bierzo DO is a wine region tucked away in the province of León – among the
most exciting Spanish frontiers and source of some of its most qualitative wine.
The fertile plain and forests of this lush valley situated between the Montes de
Leon and Cordillera Cantábrica mountain ranges is referred to as the ‘gateway
to Galicia’ as it’s geography is a funnel into this verdant corner of northwestern
Spain. Though it’s a relatively small wine growing area, it benefits from a special
micro-climate that is equally conducive to cultivation of both red and white vine
stock. Home to 55 principle vineyards and despite being a lesser-known region
in terms of international markets – it’s producing an impressive11 million liters
of wine annually and still sustainably expanding.

Under the watchful guidance of master wine maker, José Luis Vázquez Santín,
Bodega del Abad (‘the Abbot’s Cellar’) has only been active as an independent
producer since 2003, but already boasts a loyal following that was reinforced
by a surprising release a couple of years ago of a 2001 Crianza-grade cache
that had been hiding somewhere in the very back corners of their cellars. This
week’s offering of a 2006 Crianza is also surprising. In both cases, we are well
beyond the typical 2 years of combined ageing in barrel and bottle mandated
by Spanish wine laws. This presumably translates into the vintner exercising
a significant amount of patience in deciding not to release stock before better
assuring that the vintage has the right balance of having become fully rounded
and mature but still possessing a fruitful vigor.

These attributes are due in part to modern production techniques being applied
but also a result of the innate potential of Mencia. Indigenous to the Bierzo, this
variety is now considered to be one of the four most important Spanish reds.
Producing small, compact clusters of medium-sized berries, its newfound
popularity is based on an ability to yield age-worthy wine at a relatively modest
price point. In the case of this week’s featured vintner, Bodega del Abad’s 35
hectares of vineyards are located up on steep terrain made up of quartzite and
slate-laden soils. The mix of old vines, with some approaching 70 years-of-age,
are producing meticulously handpicked and hand-sorted grapes, creating wine
with a characteristic, velvety palate.

This is ready to go now and likely to fly off the shelves quickly – so buy enough
to get you through the upcoming Fall and Winter while you can!

Abad Dom Bueno Crianza

ABAD DOM BUENO CRIANZA 2006
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #244699 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 14.95
Alcohol/Vol. 13.5%
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Bierzo, Spain
By: Bodega Del Abad
Release Date: July 19, 2014

Tasting Note
Having aged gracefully, this offers juicy red cherry and currant flavours over a
core of gentle tannins. The refreshing acidity enhances the soft accents of black
pepper and tea leaf notes. Serve with rich poultry dishes, roast leg of lamb,
marinated steak or spicy beef empanadas.

Bonarda Alert

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By now, most wine consumers are aware of the success in the transplantation
of Malbec from its roots in the French Cahors region, to thriving in the relative
new world surroundings of Argentina. Less well-known is the intriguing story of
the Bonarda grape: the region’s second-most planted variety. Currently, debate
and uncertainty continues to swirl about its origin with some expert speculation
suggesting that its parent vine stock is Bonarda Piemontese or Novarese from
Italy. Others propose that it’s the French grape Corbeau in disguise, which is now
nearly commercially extinct in its native, sub-alpine region of Savoie. What does
seem somewhat more certain, in a cross-cultural farming legacy with so many
twists and turns, is that it was imported to South America by Italian immigrants
who are credited with the further development of the vineyards first established
by Spanish missionary priests, then improved on by French botanists – and now
being very innovatively overseen by visionary, homegrown talent!

Launched in 2000, the ‘VinEcol’ winery project set out to join the leading-edge of
the organic wine-making scene that has quickly developed both in Chile and here
in Argentina’s famed Mendoza region. Arguably, these wine-making regions enjoy
unique geographic and climatic attributes such as high altitude and low humidity
which guard against many of the scourges and susceptibilities suffered by grape
vines elsewhere such mold, fungus and insects. This reality has made transition
to organic practices much less complicated, though no-less admirable a pursuit.

Desirably situated at the edge of the Ñacuñan Biosphere Reserve in the district
of La Paz, the bodega’s 80 hectares of trellised vineyard excel in an unspoiled
and almost pollution-free environment. Some challenges exist though, in what is
essentially a near-desert environment created and perpetuated by being in the
‘rain-shadow’ of the Andes range. The upside to this is the relative abundance of
melt water from the mountains, which feeds the Mendoza River and then in turn,
gets distributed throughout the dusty plain – offering growers the option of drip
and/or surface (flood) irrigation.

As the ‘organic’ farming movement is still in its early years, there are numerous
outstanding questions regarding the impact of these regimes and philosophy on
quality and flavor. In the case of this week’s DéClassé recommended bottling of
VinEcol Bonarda, the questions are moot; this is simply great wine being offered
at a remarkably modest price-point. Dare to try it ever-so-slightly chilled as your
new, go-to summer red. Better buy a bunch before it’s gone until next year!

Vinecol Bonarda

VINECOL ORGANIC BONARDA 2013
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #375493 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
14.0% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Mendoza, Argentina
By: Winery Vinecol Sa
Release Date: Jun 21, 2014

Tasting Note
This rich, ink-coloured and pleasingly rustic wine has loads of dark berry fruit,
chocolate and a touch of spice. Try serving with grilled meats, roasted veggies,
or as an apéritif with slightly more assertive cheese such as Pecorino.

Vinho Tinto Alert

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Majestically winding its way for over 900km down through the Iberian Peninsula,
the Douro River acts as a border with Spanish neighbours, while also providing
the region on the Portuguese side with its iconic namesake. The wine-producing
zone lies framed between the towns of Barca d’Alva and Régua where the river
valleys point westward for a time, creating ideal growing conditions that are
equally conducive to regionally distinctive White, Red and Port grape varieties.

Blended from local stars Touriga Franca (50%), Tinta Roriz (30%) and some
Touriga Nacional (20%), this week’s DéClassé recommended wine could have
ended up being processed into a Port style; had it been mixed with a form of
unrefined Brandy. This alternate finishing recipe would have eliminated any of
the remaining yeasts, so as to maintain a higher degree of sweetness. Rather,
the yeasts were allowed to complete the wines transition from having residual
sugar – to having all these converted to alcohol, thereby becoming a ‘dry’ wine.

As in the case here, most of Douro’s red wines are vinified in so-called ‘lagares’.
These are fairly large, open stone containers made of Granite and Schist that
the sorted and destemmed grapes are poured into – to then be methodically
crushed under foot in this age-old, wine making tradition. Fermentation naturally
begins when the wild yeasts that coat the grape skin comes into contact with
the sugar from the released juice. Surprisingly, it frequently requires only 24hrs.
to complete this step, after which the young wine is strained into stainless steel
holding tanks to undergo a second, bacteria-induced ‘malolactic’ fermentation.
This healthy form of bacterial intervention helps to convert the tart Malic acid in
the fruit into Lactic acid, which markedly softens the mouthfeel of the wine.

Maria Manuela Matos Mendes oversees 23 hectares of reclaimed family farm
including both vineyard and Olive grove and is a leading part of a reinvigorated
generation of Portuguese vintners that are both fiercely proud of long-standing
wine-making methods, but are also embracing modern, international standards.
Their output, arguably, remains under-priced relative to the high quality of their
offerings, which means that now is still a great time to stock up before everyone
catches on to these astonishing values. Decant for several hours, or put your 6
bottles away for a couple of years and be amazed at how good it will become!

Quinta Do Roncao

QUINTA DO RONCÃO RESERVA 2011
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #147942 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
14.1% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Douro, Portugal
By: Maria Manuela
Release Date: Jun 7, 2014

Tasting Note
Pick a juicy red and black fruit that comes to mind and you’ll likely be able to tag
it in the aromas and flavours in this bottling. This will nicely compliment all of the
more-premium food-fare coming off your grill this summer.

Côtes du Rhône Alert

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Providing Domaine de la Valériane with its namesake, Valérie Collomb
is building an enviable reputation for the 40 hectare family farm. Located in the
small village of Domazan just outside the city of Avignon, the current property
was consolidated by her parents from several existing vineyard plots in the early
1980’s. Geographically, this is at the lower end of the crescent-shaped areas in
the Southern Rhône Valley – renowned for the prolific output of so-called ‘GSM’
blends (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) among numerous other variations.

As far as familiar French wine regions go, these demarcated areas represent a
relatively newer set of AOC’s (Appellation d’Origin Contrôlée), most of which were
only created in the late 1930’s, with another 10 areas added in 2004. Primary
groupings for wines produced fall into 3 categories: Côtes du Rhône – the least
stringent, Côtes du Rhône–Villages is more noteworthy, particularly those with
the actual village name added and finally so-called Cru, representing the highest
quality available. All in all, with very healthy and sustainable production levels of
around 350 million bottles a year, CDR wines will continue to be offered at highly
competitive pricing well into the foreseeable future.

This week’s DéClassé recommended bottling is an unusually limited blend that
uses only 2 equal parts drawn from 23 allowable grape varieties: 50% Syrah
and Grenache. Notably though, this offering is being produced from the fruit of
30 to 40-year-old vines, which thrive here in the clay-limestone soils covered with
large stone pebbles – thus justifying the moniker of ‘vielles vignes’ (old vines). As
well, fermentation and aging of the harvest only takes place in concrete vats, so
this particular blend never sees the influence of wood – thereby displaying much
softer tannins and more natural character than a wine that has been Oak-aged.

This is ready to go now, though will hold up for another year or so. As the vintner
is unsure of which Gold Medal stickers to place on the bottle: either the equally
prestigious Concours de Mâcon or the Concours Général de Paris 2013, this
wine is selling quickly –buy at least 2 if not half a case to cover your summer!

Valeriane

DOMAINE DE LA VALÉRIANE VIEILLES VIGNES CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2012
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #374280 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rhône, France
By: Valérie Collomb, Prop.-récolt
Release Date: May 24, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a medium-bodied, fruit-driven wine that will develop some spiciness when
paired with a broad variety of food fare from the oven or the grill. These might
include ratatouille, Porcini-crusted roast lamb, chicken Tikka Masala and Chevre,
Brie and Camembert cheeses.

Rioja Alert

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For a family tradition begun in 1889, Carlos and Ana Martínez Bujanda are the
current stewards of an impressive history at Bodegas Valdemar – now rooted
in the pursuit of wine-making innovation on their 1,000 acre estate. Beginning
about 25 miles south of the French border and in the shadow of the Cantabrian
Mountains, the 3 famed sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa are
clustered around the Ebro River and its tributary Rio Oja. Long considered the
premier source of Spanish wine, local vintners have been practicing and refining
their agricultural art here for well over 2,500 years and counting.

This modern Rioja blend built on an elegant backbone of 80% Tempranillo with
its fruity mouthfeel, will become even more velvety as it ages. Making up fully ¾
of all root-stock planted in this storied region’s vineyards, its name is derived
from the Spanish ‘temprano’ meaning ‘early’ and it does in fact, reliably ripen
quite early. Adding some additional complexity are 10% each of Graciano and
Maturana Tinta. Almost lost as a result of difficult cultivation liabilities including
susceptibility to molds such as Botrytis, these indigenous varieties are seeing
a resurgence of popularity due to the strong aromatic character that Graciano
imparts and the intensity of colour that Maturana provides. As well, both have
a high polyphenol content that promotes better balanced barrel-ageing, which
in the case of this wine’s Crianza designation – means a minimum of 10 months
spent in mainly French and some American (20%) oak.

Ranked #34 in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2013, it’s decidedly a
remarkable showing for an offering under $20 a bottle. This has sufficient body
to hold up well for another 3-4 years – so buy lots and don’t rush to drink it!

Inspiracion

VALDEMAR INSPIRACIÓN SELECCIÓN 2010
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #166512 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.00
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Rioja, Spain
By: Bodegas Valdemar
Release Date: May 10, 2014

Tasting Note
This is a medium-bodied red with lively acidity, integrated tannins and hints of
both balsamic and spice. Far more polished than one would expect from its
price-point, try serving with braised or charcoal grilled meats and sausages.
Also satisfying as an apéritif with ripe cheeses, spicy tapas and charcuterie.

Malbec Alert

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Centered in the town of Maipú, at the foot of the majestic Andean mountains
Trapiche is no Argentinean upstart; having received its first international award
in Paris in 1889. From its modest beginnings as a small plot called El Trapiche,
the winery now oversees over 1,255 hectares of vineyards, as well as, working
collaboratively with over 300 local growers. It is also a leading South American
influence in actively pursuing Biodynamic farming practices. Aiming to preserve
the natural balance of both the fruit crops and surrounding ecosystems, they
have gradually eliminated use of chemicals, herbicides and fungicides. This is not
only a pure form of ecological agriculture, but also intends to produce wines that
are more representative of terroir through a less-invasive manner of production.

Cultivation of Argentina’s signature Malbec grape, a hearty, thick-skinned variety
first introduced in the 1850’s by Frenchman Miguel Pouget has gone through
many cycles of being in and out of commercial favour. From the transplantation
from its roots in the French Cahors region to thriving in new world surroundings
in the now famed Mendoza region, this week’s DéClassé recommended, varietal
bottling is 100% Malbec. Harvested from mature, 25 yr.-old vine stock, this is an
example of the Broquel (‘shield’ in Spanish) tier of wines, that are single vineyard
selections from within the estate aged for 15 months in a combination of 100%
new French and American oak barrels.

For bigger-bodied red wine lovers, you’re unlikely to find a more over-achieving
bottle at such a humble price-point. Time to stock up your cellar on a budget
– as this will continue to become even more rounded over the coming 2–5yrs.
If you’re incapable of waiting, then decant an hour or so in advance of enjoying.

Trapiche Broqel

TRAPICHE BROQUEL MALBEC
LCBO Product #234385 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 12.95
Limited Time Offer
Was: $ 14.95
Until May 25, 2014
14.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Mendoza, Argentina
By: Penaflor/Trapiche

Tasting Note
This wine with its deep ruby hues gives off heady aromas of red and black fruit.
Also expect classic notes of spice, vanilla and fairly smooth tannins – though
this is still a young wine. Try serving with grilled red meats, hearty stews, pastas,
maple-roasted squash or mushroom risotto.

Cab Sauvignon Reserva Alert

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Founded in the 1870’s, Bodegas Torres has over the course of 140 years or
so, been the major driving force in putting Spain’s now-famous Penedès region
on the international wine-making map. Numerous impediments along the way,
including the partial destruction of the winery during the civil war (1936-39),
have inspired and motivated the evolution of this vintner’s practices away from
simply being a bulk wine supplier to now thriving in the current status as a
renowned bottler of vintage offerings in 50 different styles – though many of
these will only be produced in appropriately good harvest years.

The Torres Family has been based in the town of Vilafranca del Penedès since
its inception as a company and has progressively expanded its holdings to over
1,700 hectares of vineyard growing at 3 levels of successively higher elevation:
coastal, central and high. The harvested fruit is vinefied and allowed to slowly
mature in the more than 2O,OOO barrels that are stored in stacks along an
impressive 2 kilometers of underground galleries!

Wine has been cultivated on the Mediterranean shores of the Iberian Peninsula
since the Phoenician period, though for this week’s benchmark, Reserva grade
red, we have Miguel A. Torres to thank for the contemporary vision of introducing
Cabernet Sauvignon to Penedès during the 1960’s and 70’s; a time when only
local, obscure white wine varieties were the norm. Along with promotion of the
French ‘emperor of red varieties’, an additional innovation came in the choice of
using indigenous Tempranillo grapes as a blending partner, better-known in the
Catalonian vineyards southwest of Barcelona as Ull de Llebre (hare’s eye).

A perennial listing in the LCBO’s Vintages Essentials catalogue, this remarkable
value is available year-round, though for the next week or so, it’s sale-priced so
as to make way for the upcoming vintage; an opportune time to reevaluate the
quality of Spanish wine and this bottle would be the ideal starting point!

Gran Coronas

TORRES GRAN CORONAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA (V)
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #36483 | 750 mL bottle
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D
Limited Time Offer
Was: $ 19.00
Now: $ 18.00
Until Apr 27, 2014

Made in: Penedès, Spain
By: Miguel Torres S.A.,
Release Date: Apr 18, 2013

Tasting Note
With a deep red hue, this dense and silky-rich red imparts aroma and flavours
of cherry, plum, red current and characteristic coffee, vanilla bean and leather
notes – that tend to arise from its slightly extended period of barrel ageing. It’s
perfect with charcuterie, cheeses, pasta with lemon cream sauce, vegetarian
paella, as well as, filet mignon, roast chicken, grilled lamb.

Dão Blend Alert

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In the reputational shadow of the better-known Portuguese wine making regions
of Alentejo and Douro, the rich offerings from the Dão are rightfully beginning to
gain more notoriety for sublime quality and consistently accessible price-points.
A case in-point, is this week’s DéClassé recommended Colheita 2010: product
of the wine-making vision of Manuel Viera, who draws on some of the very best
vine stock on the 100 hectares in the Quinta dos Carvalhais estate.

Some geographic keys to this successful terroir is that the vineyards of Dão are
surrounded on 3 sides by the Serra da Estrela, Serra do Caramulo and Serra da
Nave Mountains that offer protection from uncertain swings of Atlantic weather
systems to the west and harsh continental climate to the east. The soils here are
primarily crushed granite mixed with sand and clay. Tending to yield grapes with
fairly high levels of acidity, this provides the wine with a brightness to balance-off
the otherwise already supple, dense fruit.

A full-bodied blend built on the Touriga Nacional grape (83%), Alfrocheiro (13%)
and Tinta Roriz (4%), this has spent 12 months maturing in a combination of
French and American Oak ‘hogsheads’ (60gl. barrels). In part, these indigenous
grape varieties reference why Portuguese wine continues to display a distinct
character of ‘somewhereness’, contrary to creeping homogenization elsewhere.

As with all good Dão reds, this wine has excellent ageing potential and will hold
its prime drinking condition for up to 10 years. So, stock up on this vintage year
– winner of the 2012 International Wine & Spirit competition’s Quality Award.

Quinta Dos Carvalhais

QUINTA DOS CARVALHAIS COLHEITA 2010
VINTAGES – LCBO Product #13474 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 17.95
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: XD

Made in: Dão, Portugal
By: Sogrape Vinhos
Release Date: Mar 29, 2014

Tasting Note
Leading with intriguing, aromatic hints of vanilla and cinnamon, this bottling is
loaded with lush fruits, balanced off by the dry, savoury tannins. As an almost
full-bodied red, its best served with game dishes, rich stews and buttery cheese.

Zinfandel Alert

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Based in California’s Sonoma County since the mid 70’s, Joel Peterson began
forging wines in an itinerant manner by moving about the region for 15 years
with his tanks and barrels in tow – searching for a financially and logistically
sustainable setting where his dream winery might take permanent root. Even
more colourful is the formative anecdote of a Raven flock buzzing about while
he desperately worked to complete his first harvest ahead of an impending and
potentially destructive thunderstorm Their inspirational form and provocative
energy led to creating the winery’s distinctive logo of 3 interlocked Black Ravens
perched on branches; a somewhat later introduction to the tragic character of
Lord Ravenswood at an operatic performance of ‘Lucia de Lammermore’ would
inspire the property’s moniker.

Since 1991, the central operation has been producing signature wines drawn
from a host of connected growers, who in local wine making lore are playfully
referred to as co-conspirators. Utilizing traditional methods such as employing
only wild yeasts in open-vat fermentors and the subsequent resting and aging
for 10 months in 100% small French Oak barrels, illustrates a combination of
traditional, old-world wine making, innovative modern techniques while wielding
the philosophical adage of ‘Nullum Vinum Flaccidum’ – no wimpy wines!

Long considered to be California’s heritage grape, the Zinfandel cultivar at the
heart of this vintner’s story also has a circuitous history as a variety, seemingly
originating on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Sea in Croatia. A near-relative
to Italy’s Primitivo grape and wine style, its Californian arrival is pegged around
the early 1850’s where it took root in the counter-intuitive growing context of
so-called dry-farming and low-production. Refered to as ‘Zeinfandell’ in these
early days, it has remained one of the most important vinestocks, vigorously
producing copious volumes of grape bunches and whose only, primary liability
lies in an uneven ripening characteristic, which needs to be closely managed.

This week is an excellent time to revisit this full and robust wine that, even when
not on sale as it currently is, continues to be one of the better price-point values
coming from a region that more-typically – is unjustifiably overpriced!

Ravens Wood

RAVENSWOOD VINTNERS BLEND OLD VINE ZINFANDEL (V)
VINTAGES – Product #359257 | 750 mL bottle
Price $ 15.95
Was: $ 17.95
Limited Time Offer
Until Mar 30, 2014
13.5% Alcohol/Vol.
Sugar Content Descriptor: D

Made in: California, USA
By: Ravenswood
Release Date: Apr 18, 2013

Tasting Note
Ripe raspberry, cherry, blueberry flavours have long made this an upscale
barbeque classic. It will stand up to some time spent on your cellar rack, so
stock up on several now to serve along your first batch of brisket or pork ribs.